Entertaining in the Raw - Matthew Kenney [28]
Foam Toss leek with 1 tablespoon truffle oil and 1/2 tablespoon salt; spread onto a half sheet pan and dehydrate at 118 degrees F for 6 hours. Blend Brazil nuts and water until smooth; strain through a fine chinois. Place Brazil nut milk back in Vita-Mix and add remaining ingredients, including marinated leek, and blend until smooth.
Assembly Place a teaspoon of foam in each “shell” and top with an oyster mushroom. Drizzle with more sauce and top with caviar and chives. Serves 4–6
Spice
“. . . we get to think of life as an inexhaustible well. Yet everything happens only a certain number of times, and a very small number, really. . . . How many more times will you watch the full moon rise? Perhaps twenty. And yet it all seems limitless.”
—Paul Bowles
The best expression, whether through food, literature, art, or film, often takes us on a journey to a place either new or forgotten. Transporting is the word often referenced when a meal not only excites our senses but also removes us from the present and places us into the captivating and unknown. I know of no other cuisine that is more sensual and deeply rooted in history and mystery as that which makes ample use of spices. There are many factors that contribute to this.
Spices have been an important economic commodity throughout history and have had a major impact on exploration, trade, and travel. They are beloved by many nations for the exotic flavors they lend to cooking, as well as for their many therapeutic and medicinal properties. I was first captivated by spices during an extended trip to Morocco, where the outdoor markets offered enormous baskets of them—filled with the deepest hues of oranges, reds, yellows, and ochres—like a glowing sunset.
Over the years, I have been introduced to dishes from around the world—most of my favorites have a powerful yet refined use of spices, from coriander to saffron to my favorite, white cardamom. These flavors and colors not only have influenced my cooking and palate but also have given me “taste memories” that will stay with me forever. I am remembering the first vegetable tagine I had in Fez so many years ago—it is as distinct as if I first tried it this morning and yet is so far away.
Spices must be used in moderation and respected for their inherent character. They must always be fresh and well stored, preferably whole or recently ground. Utilize them as you might a photo album or a brief vacation—let them transport you to another land and place far away, or let them bring you home again.
Black Sesame Paratha, Spiced Cucumbers, and Mango–Green Papaya Chutney
Indian dishes are excellent for use in raw food preparation because of their ability to utilize ingredients—cucumbers and fruits, for example—that work so well in their raw state. It is also relatively easy to dress up an Indian dish with a simple chutney or spice mix in a way that it becomes something far more interesting. This paratha is a very easy dish to put together once the crisp is prepared. It is a great snack or casual starter for a dinner party or luncheon.
Paratha
1 cup flax meal
3/4 cup walnuts, soaked 1–2 hours
3/4 cup cashews, soaked 2 hours
2 yellow squash, chopped
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon nutritional yeast
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1/4 cup black sesame seeds
Cucumbers
1 large cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, and seeded
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon cumin
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
Sea salt to taste
Chutney
2 ripe mangoes, cut into small dice
2 tablespoons raw agave
1/4 teaspoon sesame oil
1 medium green papaya, shredded
1 teaspoon minced green chili
1 tablespoon cracked coriander seed
Sea salt
1/4 cup cilantro
Garnish
2 avocados, diced
1 teaspoon paprika plus 1 tablespoon for garnish
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
Salt
Cilantro leaves
Paratha Place flax meal in a medium-size bowl; set aside. Blend remaining ingredients in a Vita-Mix until smooth. Add to flax meal and combine well. Spread 3-inch circles,