Entertaining in the Raw - Matthew Kenney [37]
The dishes in this section are recognized for their association with this spirit, for their ability to remind us of beautiful places visited in the past, and for the lifestyle they represent. They are most suitable to a summer afternoon luncheon, a dinner outdoors under the stars, a warm day, a casual celebration—and most of the food experiences we might associate with a slower, relaxing gathering.
Caribbean Conch Chowder
The life of a food lover adds a great deal to one’s memory; so often clouded by time and place, we develop taste memories that symbolize our experience with a dish. My first taste of conch was at a beach café in Mexico many years ago. I spent a long day in the sun reading Tender is the Night, so immersed in the book that I felt as if I were on the beach next to the divers. After a couple of iced margaritas, the chilled conch was impeccable. I never had it again, but this version succeeded in recapturing that moment for me. Not only did I love the flavor of this chowder, I also loved being transported back to a quieter, relaxing time in my life.
Cream
1 cup Brazil nuts, soaked 8–12 hours
3 cups water
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon nama shoyu
1 shallot
1 teaspoon nutritional yeast
2 teaspoons salt
Black pepper
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
Pinch cayenne
Assembly
2 cups chopped young Thai coconut meat
1/2 cup diced red bell pepper
1/2 cup minced celery
2 tablespoons minced scallions
Cream Blend Brazil nuts and water in a Vita-Mix. Strain through a fine strainer and discard the pulp. Blend this nut milk and the remaining ingredients in Vita-Mix until completely smooth and creamy. Taste for seasoning.
Assembly Divide the soup among 4 bowls and garnish right before serving with the ingredients listed.
Note: When I first served this dish at a Caribbean dinner, we poured the soup inside young coconuts with the flesh still intact. The presentation is always fun, and the fresh tender coconut meat is great when scooped out and eaten with the chowder. Serves 4–6
Roasted Sweet Pepper Soup, Basil Manti, and Hazelnut “Yogurt”
Red sweet peppers (longer and thinner skinned than red bell peppers) are ideal for making soups in the summer, when they are sweet and combine well with spices, nuts, and herbs. I was fortunate to have a consulting position in Istanbul many years ago, when I became close friends with the family I was working with, who owned the Borsa Restaurant group. They are the most hospitable people I have ever met and always went out of their way not only to feed me well but also to educate me on their native cuisine. Turkey is one of few countries that produces all of its own food, and the ingredients are impeccable. Manti are dumplings, traditionally filled with lamb and served in a yogurt sauce. As always, we’ve reinterpreted everything and came up with a dish that was everyone’s favorite.
Soup (2 Quarts)
1 cup cashews, soaked 1–2 hours
5 cups water
1 cup coconut meat
3-1/2 teaspoons salt
Black pepper
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon nutritional yeast
2 pinches cayenne pepper
3/4 teaspoon Aleppo pepper spice
2 cups red bell pepper pieces, dehydrated 2 hours
Wrappers
2 cups coconut meat
1/2 cup fresh basil leaves
1 tablespoon water
Pinch salt
Filling
2 cups roughly chopped portobello mushrooms
1/2 cup roughly chopped red onions
Olive oil
Salt
Black pepper
1/2 cup cashews, soaked 1–2 hours
1 teaspoon chopped thyme
“Yogurt”
1-3/4 cups hazelnuts, soaked 1–2 hours
1/2 cup coconut meat
3/4 cup water
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon salt
Garnish
Chervil
Soup Blend all ingredients in a Vita-Mix until smooth. Warm in a dehydrator until ready to serve.
Wrappers Blend all ingredients in Vita-Mix until very smooth. Using an offset spatula, spread the mixture thinly on dehydrator Teflex sheets and dehydrate at 115 degrees F for 3–4 hours, or until the