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homemade pasta absorbs it deeply. Good, fresh pasta made at home has a gossamer touch on the palate, it feels light and buoyant in the mouth. Most olive oil sauces obliterate its fine texture, making it slick, and strong flavors deaden it. Its most pleasing match is with subtly constituted sauces, be they with seafood, meat, or vegetable, generally based on butter and often enriched by cream or milk.

The following table illustrates some of the pleasing combinations that the sauces appearing in this volume lend themselves to with a variety of pasta types.

Factory-Made Boxed, Dry Pasta

PASTA SHAPE RECOMMENDED SAUCE

bucatini (also known as perciatelli) (thick, hollow strands)

• Tomato with Olive Oil and Chopped Vegetables, Variation with Marjoram and Two Cheeses

• Tomato with Sautéed Vegetables and Olive Oil

• Amatriciana: Tomato with Pancetta and Chili Pepper

• Sicilian Sardine

ruote di carro (cartwheels), conchiglie (shells), fusilli (corkscrews, either short and stubby or long and thin)

• Tomato with Olive Oil and Chopped Vegetables, Variation with Rosemary and Pancetta

• Amatriciana: Tomato with Pancetta and Chili Pepper

• Tomato with Porcini Mushrooms

• Mushroom with Ham and Tomato

• Peas, Bacon, and Ricotta

• Broccoli and Anchovy

• Sausages and Cream

• Bolognese Meat

• Eggplant and Ricotta, Sicilian Style

Also specially good with fusilli:

• Fried Zucchini with Garlic and Basil

• Zucchini with Basil and Beaten Egg Yolk

maccheroncini (short, narrow tubes), and penne (quills)

• Tomato with Onion and Butter

• Tomato with Olive Oil and Chopped Vegetables

• Tomato with Sautéed Vegetables and Olive Oil

• Amatriciana: Tomato with Pancetta and Chili Pepper

maccheroncini and penne

• Tomato with Porcini Mushrooms

• Mushroom with Ham and Tomato

• Spinach with Ricotta and Ham

• Peas, Peppers, and Prosciutto with Cream

• Roasted Red and Yellow Pepper with Garlic and Basil

• Cauliflower with Garlic, Oil, and Chili Pepper

• Tuna with Tomatoes and Garlic

• Fish

• Gorgonzola

• Asparagus with Ham and Cream

• Prosciutto and Cream

rigatoni (broad, short tubes)

• Tomato with Onion and Butter

• Tomato with Sautéed Vegetables and Olive Oil

• Amatriciana: Tomato with Pancetta and Chili Pepper

• Eggplant and Ricotta, Sicilian Style

• Spinach with Ricotta and Ham

• Peas, Bacon, and Ricotta

• Roasted Red and Yellow Pepper with Garlic and Basil

• Tuna with Tomatoes and Garlic

• Fish

• Gorgonzola

• Red and Yellow Bell Pepper with Sausages

• Prosciutto and Cream

• With Bolognese Meat Sauce

spaghetti, sometimes known as vermicelli

• Tomato with Onion and Butter

• Tomato with Olive Oil and Chopped Vegetables, Variation with Marjoram and Two Cheeses

• Eggplant and Ricotta, Sicilian Style

• Fried Zucchini with Garlic and Basil

• Smothered Onions

• Butter and Rosemary

• Aio c Oio : Roman Garlic and Oil

• Pesto

• Pesto with Ricotta

• Tuna with Tomatoes and Garlic

• Scallop with Olive Oil, Garlic, and Hot Pepper

• Fish

• Butter and Parmesan Cheese

• Carbonara

spaghettini, thin spaghetti, sometimes known as vermicellini

• Tomatoes with Olive Oil and Chopped Vegetables

• Tomato with Garlic and Basil

• Eggplant with Tomato and Red Chili Pepper

• Aio e Oio, Raw Version, with Fresh Tomatoes and Basil

• Tomato and Anchovy

• Black Truffle

• Clam with Tomatoes

• White Clam

• Sardinian Bottarga

• Scallop with Olive Oil, Garlic, and Hot Pepper

ziti (narrow, short tubes), see penne, above

Homemade Fresh* Pasta

*Note When, in this book, the word “fresh” is applied to pasta, it means pasta produced by home techniques, almost invariably using a dough that contains eggs. It does not mean pasta kept artificially soft with cornmeal or through vacuum-packaging or by other methods. Fresh pasta may indeed be quite dry, and good, naturally dried fresh pasta is absolutely to be preferred to the spuriously soft variety available commercially.

PASTA SHAPE

RECOMMENDED SAUCE

capelli d’angelo, angel hair

In Italy, these very thin noodles are served only in meat or chicken broth