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Round wooden toothpicks

1 cup unflavored bread crumbs

Salt

⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil

Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill

OPTIONAL: a charcoal or wood-burning grill

1. Wash the unshelled shrimp in cold water, then pat thoroughly dry with cloth kitchen towels.

2. Using scissors, cut the shell of each shrimp along the back and for its entire length down to the tail. Run a single toothpick into each shrimp, inserting it between the flesh of the belly and the shell. This is to straighten the shrimp and to keep it from curling while it cooks so that when done it resembles cannocchie.

3. When all the shrimp is prepared, put it in a bowl and add all the other ingredients. Be liberal with both salt and pepper. Turn the shrimp to coat it thoroughly, forcing a little of the marinade under the shell where it is cut. Let steep at room temperature for at least ½ hour, or as long as 2 hours, turning it from time to time.

4. If using charcoal or wood, light the charcoal in time for it to form white ash before cooking, or the wood long enough in advance to reduce it to hot embers. If using an indoor gas or electric grill, preheat it at least 15 minutes before you are ready to cook.

5. If using charcoal or wood, put the shrimp in a hinged, double grill and close the grill tightly. If using an indoor broiler, place it on the broiler’s grilling pan. Cook very close to the source of heat, about 2 minutes on one side and 1½ minutes on the other, or slightly more if the shrimp is very thick. When done, serve at once, with plenty of paper napkins available.

Shrimp Fried in Leavened Batter

THERE ARE MANY frying batters, each suited to a different objective. For a thin eggshell-like crust of matchless crispness, try the flour-and-water batter. For a crisp coating that is also light and fluffy, try the yeast batter given below. It is a favorite of cooks from Rome down to Palermo who use it for frying small shellfish and vegetables.

Skewering each shrimp, or 2 at a time if very small, with a toothpick as described in the recipe is not absolutely necessary, but it has its advantages. If you are using tiny shrimp, which would be the most desirable ones for this dish, it keeps them from forming lumps of two or three as they fry and permits them to maintain a clearly defined and attractive shape. And it is very helpful to have one end of the toothpick to hold on to when dipping the shrimp in the batter.

For 4 servings

1 pound unshelled shrimp, as small as possible

OPTIONAL: round wooden toothpicks

2 eggs

Salt

½ package active dry yeast (about 1¼ teaspoons), dissolved in 1 cup lukewarm water

1 cup flour

Vegetable oil for frying

1. Shell the shrimp and remove their dark vein. Wash in several changes of cold water and pat thoroughly dry with cloth kitchen towels.

2. OPTIONAL: Bend each shrimp following its natural curve, causing the head and tail to meet and slightly overlap. Skewer it with a toothpick holding tail and head in place.

3. Break both eggs into a bowl, add a large pinch of salt, and beat them well with a fork. Add the dissolved yeast, then add the flour, shaking it through a strainer, while beating the mixture steadily with a fork.

4. Put enough oil in a frying pan to come ¼ inch up its sides and turn on the heat to high. To determine when the oil is hot enough for frying, plop a drop of batter into it: If it stiffens and instantly comes to the surface, the oil is ready.

5. Dip the shrimp into the batter, letting the excess flow back into the bowl, and slip it into the pan. Do not put in any more shrimp at one time than will fit loosely without crowding the pan. As soon as the shrimp has formed a rich, golden crust on one side, turn it and do the other side. Using a slotted spoon or spatula, transfer the fried shrimp to a cooling rack to drain, or place it on a platter lined with paper towels.

6. Stir the batter with the fork, dip more shrimp, and repeat the procedure described above, until all the shrimp are done. Sprinkle with salt and serve promptly.

Fried Tidbits of Swordfish or Other Fish

HERE WE