Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking - Marcella Hazan [141]
Porgies or Other Small Fish Pan-Roasted with Marjoram and Lemon
PAN-ROASTING—the method that is neither sautéing nor braising, but something in between—is one of the basic techniques of the Italian kitchen for cooking fish as well as meat, chicken, and smaller birds. It is more controlled cooking than oven-roasting, combining the slow concentration of flavor that takes place in the dry air of the oven with the juiciness and superior texture one can achieve on top of the stove.
The recipe below is most successful with small, whole fish, but firm-fleshed, thick fillets with the skin on can also be used.
For 4 to 6 servings
4 small or 3 medium whole fish, such as porgies, bass, pompano, about ¾ to 1 pound each, scaled and gutted, but with head and tail on
3 garlic cloves
3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup flour, spread on a plate
1 teaspoon fresh marjoram leaves OR ½ teaspoon dried
Salt
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1. Wash the fish inside and out in cold water, then pat thoroughly dry with paper towels.
2. Lightly mash the garlic with a heavy knife handle, just hard enough to split the skin, and peel it.
3. Choose a lidded saute pan or deep skillet that will subsequently be able to accommodate all the fish without overlapping. Put in the butter and oil and turn on the heat to medium high.
4. When the butter and oil are quite hot, dredge the fish in flour on both sides, and put it in the pan together with the garlic and marjoram. If using thick fillets, put them in skin side down first.
5. Brown the fish for about 1½ minutes on each side. Add liberal pinches of salt, black pepper, and the lemon juice, cover the pan, and turn the heat down to medium. Cook for about 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish, turning the fish over after 6 minutes or so.
6. Transfer to a warm serving platter, lifting the fish gently with two metal spatulas to keep it from breaking up, pour all the juices in the pan over it, and serve at once.
Halibut or Other Fish Steaks Sauced with White Wine and Anchovies
For 4 servings
2 pounds halibut OR other fish steaks in slices 1 inch thick
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
⅔ cup flour, spread on a plate
1½ cups onion chopped fine
3 tablespoons chopped parsley
Salt
⅔ cup dry white wine
1 or 2 flat anchovy fillets (preferably the ones prepared at home as described), chopped to a pulp
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
1. Wash the fish steaks in cold water, then pat them thoroughly dry with paper towels. Do not tear or remove the skin that encircles them.
2. Choose a saute pan that can subsequently accommodate all the fish without overlapping. Put in half the olive oil and turn on the heat to medium.
3. Dredge the fish in the flour on both sides. When the oil is hot, slip the steaks into the pan, and cook them about 5 minutes on one side and 4 minutes or less on the other. Take off heat, and draw off and discard most of the oil in the pan.
4. Put the remaining ¼ cup of oil and the chopped onion into a small saucepan, turn on the heat to medium, and cook the onion, stirring, until it becomes colored a very pale gold. Add the chopped parsley and a pinch of salt, stir quickly once or twice, then add the wine and the anchovies. Cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, using the back of the spoon from time to time to mash the anchovies against the side of the pan.
5. When most of the wine has evaporated, pour the contents of the saucepan over the fish in the saute pan. Add some pepper. Turn on the heat to medium, and cook for about 2 minutes, spooning the sauce over the fish to baste it once or twice.
6. Lift the steaks with a broad spatula or possibly two, one in either hand, gently transferring them to a warm serving platter, taking care that they do not break up. Pour all the contents of the pan over the fish and serve at once.
Sautéed Swordfish or Salmon Steaks with