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Alternative Uses for Squid and Tomatoes

Omit the peas from the above recipe, and when the squid is done, chop it coarsely in the food processor. You can then use it as a sauce for such pasta shapes as spaghettini or rigatoni, or as the flavor base of a risotto made following the general procedure described in Risotto with Clams.

Squid and Potatoes, Genoa Style

For 6 servings

3 pounds small to medium whole squid OR 2½ pounds cleaned squid, sliced into rings

5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons chopped garlic

1½ tablespoons chopped parsley

⅓ cup dry white wine

1 cup canned imported Italian plum tomatoes, cut up, with their juice

½ teaspoon chopped fresh marjoram or oregano OR ¼ teaspoon dried

1¼ pounds boiling potatoes

Salt

Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill

1. If cleaning the squid yourself, follow these directions. Slice the sac into rings a little less than ½ inch wide, and separate the cluster of tentacles into two parts. Whether cleaning it yourself or using it already cleaned, wash all parts in cold water and pat thoroughly dry with cloth or paper towels.

2. Put the oil, garlic, and parsley in a saute pan, turn the heat on to high, and cook the garlic until it becomes colored a light nut brown. Put in all the squid. Use a long-handled fork to turn the squid, looking out for any that may pop, spraying drops of hot oil; do not hunch over the pan.

3. When the squid turns a dull, flat white, add the wine, and let it bubble away for about 2 minutes. Add the cut-up tomatoes with their juice, the marjoram or oregano, and stir thoroughly. Cover the pan and adjust the heat to cook at a slow simmer.

4. While the squid is cooking, peel the potatoes and cut them up into irregular pieces about 1½ inches thick. When the squid has cooked for about 45 minutes and is tender, add salt, the potatoes, and several grindings of pepper, stir thoroughly to coat well, and cover the pan again. Cook, always at a slow simmer, until the potatoes are tender, about 20 to 30 minutes. Taste and correct for salt and pepper and serve promptly.

Note Marjoram is what a Genoese cook would use and it should be your first choice if you prefer a lighter fragrance. With oregano, the dish assumes an emphatically accented style that can be rather enjoyable.

Ahead-of-time note The dish may be prepared entirely in advance, and kept for a day or two. Reheat gently before serving. If possible, eat it the same day it is cooked, when its flavor has not been impaired by refrigeration.

Stuffed Whole Squid Braised with Tomatoes and White Wine

For 6 servings

6 whole squid with sacs measuring 4½ to 5 inches in length, not including the tentacles

FOR THE STUFFING

1 egg

Approximately 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons parsley chopped fine

½ teaspoon chopped garlic

2½ tablespoons freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese

¼ cup fine, dry unflavored bread crumbs

Salt

Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill

Darning needle and cotton thread OR strong, round toothpicks

THE BRAISING INGREDIENTS

Extra virgin olive oil for cooking

4 whole garlic cloves, peeled

½ cup canned imported Italian plum tomatoes, chopped, with their juice

½ teaspoon garlic chopped fine

¼ cup dry white wine

1. When stuffing squid it is preferable to clean it yourself, both to make sure the sac is thoroughly clean and that it is not cut or torn, which might cause it to come apart in cooking. Pull off the tentacles as described and proceed to clean the squid following the directions given there. If it has been cleaned for you, look the sac over, wash out the inside thoroughly, and remove any of the skin that might have been left on. Wash in cold water and pat thoroughly dry with cloth or paper towels.

2. Chop the tentacles very fine either with a knife or in the processor, and put them in a bowl.

3. To make the stuffing: In a saucer beat the egg lightly with a fork, and add it to the bowl with the tentacles. Into