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½ lemon, sliced very thin

1. Put the oil and 2 tablespoons of butter into a skillet, turn on the heat to medium high, and when the butter foam begins to subside, dredge the scaloppine in flour and cook them exactly as described in Step 2 of Veal Scaloppine with Marsala.

2. Off heat, add the lemon juice to the skillet, using a wooden spoon to scrape loose the browning residues on the bottom and sides. Swirl in the remaining tablespoon of butter, put in any juices the scaloppine may have shed in the plate, and add the chopped parsley, stirring to distribute it evenly.

3. Turn on the heat to medium and return the scaloppine to the pan. Turn them quickly and briefly, just long enough to warm them and coat them with sauce. Turn out the entire contents of the pan onto a warm platter, garnish the platter with lemon slices, and serve at once.

Note One sometimes sees scaloppine with lemon topped with a sprinkling of fresh chopped parsley. It’s perfectly all right as long as you don’t make the sauce with parsley. The color of cooked parsley contrasts unappetizingly with that of the fresh. If you use one, omit the other.

Veal Scaloppine with Mozzarella

For 4 servings

½ pound mozzarella, preferably buffalo-milk mozzarella

2 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 pound veal scaloppine, cut from the top round, and flattened as described

Salt

Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill

1. Slice the mozzarella into the thinnest slices you are able to, making sure you end up with 1 slice for every scaloppine.

2. Choose a sauté pan that can subsequently accommodate all the scaloppine without overlapping. (If you do not have a single pan that large, use two, dividing the butter and oil in half, then adding 1 tablespoon of each for each pan.) Put in the butter and oil, and turn on the heat to high.

3. When the butter foam begins to subside, put in the scaloppine. Brown them quickly on both sides, about 1 minute altogether if the fat is hot enough. Sprinkle with salt and turn the heat down to medium.

4. Place a slice of mozzarella on each of the scaloppine, and sprinkle with pepper. Put a cover on the pan for the few seconds it will take for the mozzarella to soften. Using a slotted spoon or spatula, transfer the veal to a warm serving platter, the mozzarella-topped side facing up.

5. Add 1 or 2 tablespoons water to the pan, turn the heat up to high, and while the water boils away, scrape the cooking residues from the bottom and sides with a wooden spoon. Pour the few dark drops of pan juices over the scaloppine, stippling the mozzarella, and serve at once.

Veal Scaloppine with Tomato, Oregano, and Capers

For 4 servings

2½ tablespoons vegetable oil

3 garlic cloves, peeled

1 pound veal scaloppine, cut from the top round, and flattened as described

Flour, spread on a plate

Salt

Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill

⅓ cup dry white wine

½ cup canned imported Italian plum tomatoes, chopped, with their juice

1 tablespoon butter

1 teaspoon fresh oregano OR ½ teaspoon dried

2 tablespoons capers, soaked and rinsed as described if packed in salt, drained if in vinegar

1. Put the oil and garlic in a skillet, turn on the heat to medium, and cook the garlic until it becomes colored a light nut brown. Remove it from the pan and discard it.

2. Turn up the heat to medium high, dredge the scaloppine in flour, and cook them exactly as described in Step 2 of Veal Scaloppine with Marsala, transferring them to a warm plate when done.

3. Over medium-high heat, add the wine, and while the wine simmers use a wooden spoon to loosen all cooking residues on the bottom and sides. Add the chopped tomatoes with their juice, stir to coat well, add the butter and any juices the scaloppine may have shed on the plate, stir, and adjust heat to cook at a steady, but gentle simmer.

4. In 15 or 20 minutes, when the fat floats free of the tomatoes, add the oregano and capers, stir thoroughly, then return the scaloppine to the pan and turn them in the tomato sauce for about a minute until they are warm again. Turn out