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1½ pounds boned veal shoulder or shank, cut into cubes of approximately 1½ inches

Flour, spread on a plate

2 tablespoons chopped onion 18 dried sage leaves ⅔ cup dry white wine

Salt

Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill

⅓ cup heavy whipping cream

1. Put the oil and butter in a saute pan and turn on the heat to high. When the butter foam begins to subside, turn the veal cubes in the flour, coating them on all sides, shake off excess flour, and put them in the pan. Cook the meat, turning it, until all sides are deeply browned. Transfer it to a plate using a slotted spoon or spatula. (If the meat doesn’t fit loosely into the pan all at one time, brown it in batches, but dip the cubes in flour only when you are ready to slip them into the pan.)

2. Turn the heat down to medium, and put the chopped onion in the pan together with the sage leaves. Cook the onion until it becomes colored a pale gold, return the meat to the pan, and add the wine, bringing it to a lively simmer while scraping the bottom and sides of the pan with a wooden spoon to loosen the browning residues. After half a minute or less, adjust the heat to cook at a gentle simmer, add salt, several grindings of pepper, and cover the pan. Cook for 45 minutes, turning and basting the meat from time to time. If the liquid in the pan becomes insufficient, replenish it when needed with 1 or 2 tablespoons of water.

3. Add the heavy cream, turn the meat thoroughly to coat it well, cover the pan again, turn the heat down to low, and cook for another 30 minutes, or until the veal feels very tender when prodded with a fork. Taste and correct for salt. Transfer the entire contents of the pan to a warm platter and serve at once.

Ahead-of-time note Like most stews, this one can be prepared several days in advance and refrigerated until needed. Reheat it gently until the meat has been warmed through and through, either on the stove or in a preheated 325° oven. Add 2 tablespoons of water when reheating.

Veal Stew with Tomatoes and Peas

For 4 to 6 servings

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1½ tablespoons butter

1½ pounds boned veal shoulder or shank, cut into 1½-inch cubes

Flour, spread on a plate

2 tablespoons chopped onion

Salt

Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill

1 cup canned imported Italian plum tomatoes, chopped coarse, with their juice

2 pounds fresh peas in their pods (please see note), OR 1 ten-ounce package frozen small peas, thawed

Note If you are using fresh peas, you will add to their sweetness and that of the stew by utilizing some of the pods. It is an optional procedure, however, and if you choose to, you can omit it.

1. Put the oil and butter in a heavy-bottomed pot or in enameled cast-iron ware, and turn on the heat to high. When the fat is hot, turn the veal cubes in the flour, coating them on all sides, shake off excess flour, and put them in the pan. Cook the meat, turning it, until all sides are deeply browned.

Transfer it to a plate using a slotted spoon or spatula. (If the meat doesn’t fit loosely into the pan all at one time, brown it in batches, but dip the cubes in flour only when you are ready to slip them into the pan.)

2. Turn the heat down to medium, and put the chopped onion in the pan. Cook the onion until it becomes colored a pale gold, return the meat to the pan, add salt, pepper, and the chopped tomatoes with their juice. When the tomatoes begin to bubble, adjust heat so that they simmer slowly, and cover the pot. Turn the meat from time to time.

3. If using fresh peas: Shell them, and prepare some of the pods for cooking by stripping away their inner membrane as described. It’s not necessary to use all or even most of the pods, but do as many as you have patience for. When the meat has cooked for about 50 minutes, add the peas and pods.

If using frozen peas: Add them to the pot when the meat has cooked for about an hour.

Cover the pot again, and continue cooking for about 1 or 1½ hours, until the veal feels very tender when prodded with a fork. If you are using fresh peas, taste them to make sure they are done; if you