Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking - Marcella Hazan [194]
Ahead-of-time note The lamb tastes best when served the moment it is done, but it can be prepared several hours in advance, up to but not including the step with the anchovies. Reheat it gently, adding a little bit of water if its juices are skimpy. When it is warm all the way through, carry out the procedure with the anchovies as described above in Step 4.
Pan–Roasted Lamb with Juniper Berries
THIS OLD LOMBARD recipe follows a procedure completely unlike that of most Italian roasts: The meat is not browned, no cooking fat is used because one relies on the juices supplied by the meat itself, and the vegetables do not undergo any preliminary sautéing, they cook from the start alongside the lamb.
Do not be discouraged by the gray appearance of the lamb during the early cooking phase. It is gray at first because it was not browned originally, but by the time it is done it will be as beautiful a glossy nut-brown as any roast. You will find that through this particular method of cooking even older lamb becomes tender, and its flavor rich and mellow. Allow about 3½ to 4 hours of cooking time.
For 4 servings
2½ pounds lamb shoulder, cut into 3- to 4-inch pieces, with the bone in
1 tablespoon chopped carrot
2 tablespoons chopped onion
1 tablespoon chopped celery
1 cup dry white wine
2 garlic cloves, mashed lightly with a knife handle, the skin removed
A sprig of fresh rosemary OR ½ teaspoon chopped dried
1½ teaspoons lightly crushed juniper berries
Salt
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
1. Choose a heavy-bottomed or enameled cast-iron pot that will contain all the ingredients. Put all the ingredients into it, cover the pot, and turn the heat on to medium low. Turn the lamb pieces over about twice an hour.
2. After 2 hours, the ingredients should have shed a considerable amount of juice. Set the pot’s cover on slightly ajar, and continue cooking at slightly higher heat. Turn the meat from time to time. After an hour and a half more, the lamb should feel very tender when prodded with a fork. If there is still too much liquid in the pot, uncover, raise the heat, and reduce it to a less runny consistency. Taste the meat and correct for salt.
3. Tip the pot and spoon off as much of the liquefied lamb fat as you can. Transfer the entire contents of the pot to a warm platter and serve at once.
Ahead-of-time note If you are going to have it that same evening, the lamb can be prepared that morning. It could even be prepared a day in advance, but its flavor will acquire a sharp edge. When making it ahead of time, do not reduce the pot juices or spoon off the fat until after you have reheated it.
Thin Lamb Chops Fried in Parmesan Batter
FRYING THEM in this batter is one of the most succulent ways to do lamb chops. The crust—crisp and delicious—seals in all the juiciness and sweetness of the lamb. The younger the lamb you use, the more delicate the flavor and texture of the dish will be, but you can successfully execute the recipe with standard lamb.
In order to fry them quickly, the chops should be no more than one rib thick. Have the butcher knock off the corner bone and remove the backbone, leaving just the rib. If he is cooperative, have him flatten the eye of each chop, otherwise flatten it yourself at home with a meat pounder, following the instructions for flattening scaloppine.
For 6 servings
12 single rib lamb chops, partly boned and flattened as described above
½ cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese, spread on a plate
2 eggs, beaten lightly in a deep dish
1 cup fine, dry, unflavored