Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking - Marcella Hazan [210]
2. Cut the kidneys into very thin slices that will resemble sliced mushroom caps. When you reach the whitish core, slice around it and discard the core.
3. Put the kidneys in a saute pan and turn the heat on to medium. Cook them for about 2 minutes, stirring them almost constantly, until they lose their raw color and become grayish and they shed a dark red liquid. Remove the kidneys from the pan, discarding all the liquid. Put them in a wire strainer or colander and rinse them in fast-running cold water. Drain and pat thoroughly dry with paper towels.
4. Rinse the saute pan and wipe it dry. Put in the oil, butter, and onion, and turn the heat on to medium. Cook, stirring the onion until it becomes colored a pale gold. Add the kidneys, stir 2 or 3 times to coat them well, then add the parsley. Cook for 1 or 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Add salt and pepper, stir again, turning over the kidneys completely, then transfer them to a warm platter with all the pan juices and serve at once.
Sautéed Lamb Kidneys with Onion, Garlic, and White Wine
For 6 servings
2 dozen lamb kidneys
⅓ cup wine vinegar
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons onion chopped very fine
½ teaspoon garlic chopped fine
3 tablespoons parsley chopped very fine
Salt
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
½ teaspoon cornstarch mixed into ¾ cup dry white wine
1. Split the kidneys in half and wash them in cold water. Put them in a bowl with the vinegar and enough cold water to cover amply. Soak them for at least 30 minutes, drain, and pat thoroughly dry with paper towels.
2. Cut the kidneys into very thin slices that will resemble sliced mushroom caps. When you reach the whitish core, slice around it and discard the core.
3. Put the oil and onion in a sauté pan, turn on the heat to medium high, and sauté the onion until it becomes colored a pale gold. Add the garlic. Stir rapidly 2 or 3 times, add the parsley, stir once, then add the kidneys. Stir thoroughly to coat the kidneys well, add salt and pepper, and stir again. The kidneys must be cooked swiftly at lively heat or they will become tough. As soon as they lose their raw, red color, transfer them to a warm plate, using a slotted spoon or spatula.
4. Add the wine and cornstarch to the pan and while the wine simmers briskly for 15 or 20 seconds, use a wooden spoon to scrape loose cooking residues from the bottom and sides of the pan. When the pan juices begin to thicken, return the kidneys to the pan, using a slotted spoon or spatula so as to leave behind any liquid they may have shed. Turn the kidneys over once or twice to coat them well, then transfer them with all the pan juices to a warm platter and serve at once.
Fried Calf’s Brains
THIS IS the most popular way of doing brains in Italy. The brains are first poached with vegetables, sliced when cool, and fried with an egg and bread crumb batter. Frying points up their exquisite texture: As one bites, the thin, golden crust gives way, yielding to the delectably tender core.
For 4 servings
1 calf’s brains, about 1 pound
1 medium carrot, peeled
½ onion, peeled
½ stalk celery
1 tablespoon wine vinegar
Salt
1 egg
1 cup fine, dry, unflavored bread crumbs, lightly toasted in a skillet or in the oven, spread on a plate
Vegetable oil
Lemon wedges at table
1. Wash the brains thoroughly under cold running water, then let them soak in a bowl of cold water for 10 minutes. Drain, and patiently remove as much of the surrounding membrane as you can along with the external blood vessels.
2. Put the carrot, onion, celery, vinegar, and 1 teaspoon salt in a saucepan with 6 cups water, and bring to a boil. Put in the brains and as soon as the water returns to a boil, adjust heat to cook at a steady, but very gentle simmer, and cover the pan.
3. After 20 minutes, drain the brains, and allow them to cool completely. When cold, wrap them in plastic wrap and refrigerate for about 15 minutes, until they are very firm.
4. Put the egg in a deep plate or small bowl, and with a fork or whisk beat it lightly