Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking - Marcella Hazan [228]
2. Choose a sauté pan that can later accommodate all the carrots loosely. Put in the olive oil and garlic, and turn on the heat to medium high. Cook and stir the garlic until it becomes colored a pale gold, then add the carrots and parsley. Toss the carrots once or twice to coat them well, then add ¼ cup water. When the water has completely evaporated, add another ¼ cup. Continue adding water at this pace, whenever it has evaporated, until the carrots are done. They should feel tender, but firm, when prodded with a fork. Test them from time to time. Depending on the youth and freshness of the carrots, it should take about 20 to 30 minutes. When done, there should be no more water left in the pan. If there is still some, boil it away quickly, and let the carrots brown lightly.
3. Add pepper and the capers, and toss the carrots once or twice. Cook for another minute or two, then taste and correct for salt, stir once again, transfer to a warm platter, and serve at once.
CAULIFLOWER
How to buy A head of cauliflower must be very hard, with leaves that are fresh, crisp, and unblemished. The florets should be compact and as white as possible. If they are yellowish or speckled, it is preferable to look elsewhere or do without.
How to boil
• Detach and discard most of the leaves, except for the small, tender inner ones, which are very nice to eat if you are serving the cauliflower as cooked salad. Cut a deep cross into the root end.
• Bring 4 to 5 quarts of water to a rapid boil. The more water you use the sweeter the cauliflower will taste and the faster it will cook. Put in the cauliflower and when the water returns to a boil, adjust heat to cook at a moderate boil.
• Cook, uncovered, until the cauliflower feels very tender when prodded with a fork, 20 minutes or more, depending on the freshness and size of the head. Drain immediately when done.
Ahead-of-time note If you are not serving boiled cauliflower lukewarm as salad, but are planning to use it in a gratin or for frying, you can cook it up to 1 day in advance.
Gratinéed Cauliflower with Butter and Parmesan Cheese
For 6 servings
1 medium head cauliflower, about 2 pounds
An oven-to-table baking dish
Butter for smearing and dotting the baking dish
Salt
⅔ cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
1. Preheat oven to 400°.
2. Boil and drain the cauliflower as described. When it has cooled enough to handle, divide the head into separate florets.
3. Choose a baking dish that can contain the florets snugly. Smear the bottom with butter and arrange the florets in it so that they overlap slightly, roof-tile fashion. Sprinkle with salt and grated Parmesan, and dot liberally with butter. Bake on the uppermost rack of the preheated oven until a light crust forms on top, about 15 to 20 minutes. After taking it out of the oven, let the cauliflower settle for a few minutes before serving.
Gratinéed Cauliflower with Béchamel Sauce
For 6 servings
1 medium head cauliflower, about 2 pounds
Salt
Béchamel Sauce, made using 2 cups milk, 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, 3 tablespoons flour, and ¼ teaspoon salt
¾ cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
Whole nutmeg
An oven-to-table baking dish
Butter for smearing and dotting the baking dish
1. Boil and drain the cauliflower, but because baking it with the bechamel later will soften it up, cook only 10 minutes after the water returns to a boil. Separate the florets and cut them into bite-size slices about ½ inch thick. Put them in a bowl and toss them with a little salt.
2. Preheat oven to 400°.
3. Make the béchamel sauce as described. When it reaches a medium density, remove it from heat and mix in all but 3 tablespoons of the grated Parmesan and a tiny grating of nutmeg—about ⅛ teaspoon.
4. Add the bechamel to the bowl with the cauliflower and fold it in gently, coating the florets well.
5. Smear the bottom of a baking dish with butter. Put in the cauliflower and all the bechamel in the bowl. The dish should be able to contain the cauliflower