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2. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to a thickness of ⅛ inch, then cut it into ribbons about 5 inches long and ½ inch wide. Twist and loop the ribbons into simple bows.

3. Melt enough lard in a skillet—or pour in enough vegetable oil—to come 1 inch up the sides of the pan. Have the heat turned to high. When the fat is very hot, put in as many pastry bows as will fit loosely in the pan. Fry them to a deep gold color on one side, then turn them and do the other side. Transfer them to a cooling rack to drain. (If you are using lard, make sure it does not overheat. If you detect the beginning of a burning smell, turn the heat down.) Repeat the procedure until all the remaining bows are done. Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar, and serve either piping hot or at room temperature. The fritters usually disappear so quickly that how best to keep them may remain purely theoretical, but in case some are left over, stack them on a plate and store them in a cupboard. They keep very well for several days.

Apple Fritters

For 4 to 6 servings

3 apples of any firm, but not sour, cooking variety

¼ cup granulated sugar

2 tablespoons rum

The peel of 1 lemon grated without digging into the white pith beneath

⅔ cup all-purpose flour

Vegetable oil

Confectioners’ sugar

1. Peel and core the apples, and cut them into slices about ⅜ inch thick.

2. Put the granulated sugar, rum, and grated lemon peel into a bowl together with the apple slices. Turn the slices once or twice and let steep for at least 1 hour.

3. Use the flour and about 1 cup water to make a pastella batter as described.

4. Pour enough oil into a skillet to come ½ inch up the sides, and turn on the heat to high.

5. Take the apple slices out of the bowl and pat them dry with paper towels. When the oil is very hot, dip them in the batter and slip as many of them into the skillet as will fit loosely. Fry them to a golden brown on one side, then turn them and do the other side. Transfer them to a cooling rack to drain. Repeat the procedure until all the remaining slices are done. Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar and serve while hot.

Diplomatico—A Chocolate Dessert with Rum and Coffee

Is THERE any other dessert like diplomatico, I wonder, that rewards such little effort with such gratifying results? You never even have to turn on the oven because you utilize ready-made pound cake. Slices of rum- and coffee-soaked cake are alternated with a simple mousse-like mixture of melted chocolate and eggs, and basically that is all there is to it. You can’t go wrong: Put in a little less rum, add a little more chocolate, add or subtract an egg, and it will still be a great success.

For 6 to 8 servings

FOR THE RUM AND COFFEE SOAK

5 tablespoons rum

1¼ cups strong espresso coffee

5 teaspoons granulated sugar

5 tablespoons water

Note Some pound cakes absorb more than others, and the rum and coffee mixture may not suffice for soaking all the slices; have additional coffee and rum available and prepare more, if you need to, guided by the proportions given above.

A 16-ounce pound cake

Cheesecloth

A 9-inch rectangular cake pan (if you like your dessert to be tall rather than broad, use a narrow loaf pan)

FOR THE CHOCOLATE FILLING

4 eggs

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

A double boiler

6 ounces semisweet chocolate in drops or chopped up or grated squares

THE FROSTING

(If you prefer chocolate)

4 ounces semisweet chocolate in drops or chopped up or grated squares

1 teaspoon butter

1 tablespoon heavy whipping cream

(If you prefer whipped cream)

1 cup very cold heavy whipping cream

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

A copper or other mixing bowl kept in the freezer

THE GARNISH

Fresh berries OR walnuts and candied fruit for either the chocolate or whipped cream frosting

1. For the rum and coffee soak: In a small bowl combine the rum, espresso, sugar, and water. Cut the pound cake into slices ¼ inch thick. Moisten cheesecloth with water and use it to line the inside of the cake pan with enough left over to extend beyond the pan and cover the cake later.