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Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking - Marcella Hazan [289]

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crema—egg custard ice cream. And I know no finer version than this one which comes from Bologna’s great classic restaurant, Diana.

For 6 to 8 servings

6 egg yolks

¾ cup granulated sugar

2 cups milk

The peel of ½ orange, with none of the white pith beneath

1 tablespoon Grand Marnier liqueur

An ice-cream maker

1. Put the egg yolks and sugar into a bowl and beat the yolks until they become pale yellow and form soft ribbons.

2. Put the milk and orange peel in a saucepan, turn the heat on to medium, and bring the milk to a slow simmer, being careful not to let it break into a boil.

3. Add the hot milk to the beaten yolks, pouring it in a thin stream through a fine strainer. Add a little at a time, stopping each time to beat it into the yolks.

4. Add the Grand Marnier, stirring well.

5. Transfer the mixture to a saucepan, turn on the heat to medium, and beat constantly for about 2 minutes without letting it boil, then take off heat and allow it to become completely cold.

6. Freeze as described.


The Chimney Sweep’s Gelato

WHEN CUSTARD gelato is dusted with powdered espresso and bathed with whisky, it is not just another clever way of dressing up ice cream: It is a combination of unexpected textures and aromas that quicken each other and thrill the palate.

The deep, doubly roasted taste of espresso coffee is essential. You can use it straight out of the can, but it is finer when ground to a powder in a highspeed blender.

If you are rushed and have no time to make the gelato, you can substitute very good quality vanilla ice cream.

For 8 servings

The egg custard gelato, made with this recipe OR enough premium-quality vanilla ice cream for 8 portions

½ cup ground espresso coffee

Scotch OR Bourbon, about 1 tablespoon per person

Scoop the gelato or vanilla ice cream into 8 individual bowls, sprinkle 1 teaspoon ground espresso coffee over each portion, and pour into each bowl enough whisky to pool at the bottom, about 1 tablespoon. Serve at once.


Sgroppino—Venetian Lemon and Strawberry “Slush” with Sparkling Wine

IF YOU RATE highly with a Venetian restaurant, at the end of the meal the waiter may ask if you’d care for a sgroppino. Should you say yes, he will set up on the serving trolley by your table two bowls, one with lemon ice cream and one with cold pureed strawberries, a whisk, and a bottle of sparkling wine. He’ll beat the ice cream, strawberries, and wine into a mixture as refreshing as whipped snow, but infinitely tastier. Sgroppino is poured into wide-mouthed goblets and served in place of, or in addition to, dessert.

For 8 servings

FOR THE LEMON ICE CREAM

(To be prepared and frozen at least 2 hours in advance.)

The peel of 4 lemons with none of the white pith beneath, about ½ tightly packed cup

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

⅔ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

⅔ cup heavy whipping cream

1. Put 1½ cups water, the lemon peel, sugar, and lemon juice in a small saucepan, and bring to a boil. After 2 minutes, take off heat, remove the lemon peel, and pour the syrup into a bowl. Let it become completely cold.

2. Add the heavy cream, stirring to incorporate it evenly into the lemon syrup, then pour the mixture into your ice-cream maker and freeze it following the manufacturer’s instructions. Store in the freezer in a tightly sealed container until you are ready to use it.

FOR THE STRAWBERRY PURÉE

(To be prepared and refrigerared at least 2 hours in advance.)

⅔ pound fresh, very ripe strawberries

Pull off the stems and leaves of the strawberries, wash them in cold water, put them in the food processor, and puree them. You should have about 2 cups strawberry puree. Transfer it to a bowl and refrigerate for at least 2 hours before using.

TO MAKE THE SGROPPINO

The lemon ice cream and cold strawberry puree from above

1¼ cups sparkling wine (see note below)

Note The ideal wine to use for sgroppino is Venice’s fresh and fruity native sparkler, Prosecco, which is available abroad in many shops that sell Italian wine. If you cannot obtain it in America, look for a substitute among non-Champagne-method

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