Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking - Marcella Hazan [46]
If you are doing more than one batch, adjust the heat when necessary to avoid burning the bread. The oil must be kept hot enough, however, to brown the squares lightly and quickly.
Ahead-of-time note Crostini are at their best when made just before serving. They may be prepared several hours ahead of time, however, and kept at room temperature. Do not keep overnight because they are likely to acquire a stale, rancid taste.
Spinach or Escarole Soup with Rice
THE INGREDIENTS in either of these soups are so few that they must be well chosen in order to deliver the comforting flavor of which they are capable. Although, for the sake of practicality, alternatives are given for homemade meat broth, the hope here is that you ignore them, relying instead on the supply of good frozen broth that you try always to have on hand.
For 4 to 6 servings
1 head escarole OR 1 pound fresh spinach
Salt
4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter
2 tablespoons chopped onion
3½ cups Basic Homemade Meat Broth, OR 1 cup canned beef broth diluted with 2½ cups water OR 2 bouillon cubes dissolved with 3½ cups water
⅓ cup rice, preferably Italian Arborio rice
3 tablespoons freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
1. If using escarole: Detach all the leaves from the root end and discard any that are bruised, wilted, or discolored. Soak the others in several abundant changes of cold water until thoroughly free of soil. Drain and cut into strips about ½ inch wide. Set aside.
If using spinach: If the spinach leaves are still attached to their root, cut it off and discard it, separating each cluster into single leaves. Do not trim off the stems because both leaves and stems go into this soup. Soak the spinach clean in several changes of cold water.
Cook the spinach in a covered pan over medium heat, adding a pinch of salt to keep it green, but no other liquid than the water clinging to its leaves. When the water it sheds begins to bubble, cook for about 2 or 3 minutes longer.
Scoop up the spinach with a colander scoop or large slotted spoon. Do not discard any of the liquid remaining in the pan. As soon as the spinach is cool enough to handle, squeeze it gently, letting all the liquid it sheds run back into the pan. Set the spinach aside, reserving the liquid.
2. Put the butter and chopped onion in a large sauté pan, and turn on the heat to medium high. Sauté the onion until it becomes colored a light gold, then add the escarole or spinach.
If using escarole: Add a pinch of salt to help it maintain its color, stir it 2 or 3 times to coat it thoroughly, then add ½ cup of broth, turn the heat down to low, and cover the pan. Cook until the escarole is tender, approximately 25 to 45 minutes, depending on the freshness and youth of the green.
If using spinach: Sauté the spinach over lively heat in the onion and butter for a few minutes, stirring 2 or 3 times.
3. Transfer the entire contents of the pan to a soup pot, add all the broth and, if you were using spinach, 1 cup of the reserved spinach liquid. Cover the pot and turn on the heat to medium. When the broth comes to a boil, add the rice, and cover the pot again. Adjust the heat to cook at a steady, slow-bubbling boil, stirring from time to time until the rice is done. In about 20 to 25 minutes, it should be firm to the bite, but tender, not chalky inside.
4. When the rice is done, swirl in the grated Parmesan and taste and correct for salt. Serve immediately.
Note The consistency of the soup should be dense, but still fairly runny on the spoon. If you find, while the rice is cooking, that it is becoming too thick, add a ladleful of water or of the spinach liquid, if available. But make sure not to dilute the soup too much.
Ahead-of-time note Once the rice is in the soup, it must be finished and served at once, otherwise the rice will become mushy. If you must cook it in advance, stop at the end of Step 2, and resume cooking when ready to serve. Do start the soup the same day you plan to have it, and do not refrigerate it.
Variation with Olive Oil and Garlic
For