Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking - Marcella Hazan [76]
Marjoram, 2 teaspoons if fresh, 1 if dried
2 tablespoons freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
2 tablespoons freshly grated romano cheese
2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
1. While the sauce is simmering, add the marjoram, stir thoroughly, and simmer for another 5 minutes.
2. Off heat, swirl in the grated Parmesan, then the romano, then the 2 teaspoons of olive oil. Toss immediately with the pasta.
Recommended pasta Excellent with spaghetti, but even better with the thicker, hollow shape, bucatini or perciatelli.
Variation with Rosemary and Pancetta
The basic sauce above, cooked through to the end, plus the following:
2 teaspoons dried rosemary leaves, chopped very fine, OR a small sprig of fresh rosemary
½ cup pancetta sliced thin and cut into narrow julienne strips
1. While the sauce is simmering, put the olive oil in a small skillet and turn on the heat to medium high. When the oil is hot, add the rosemary and the pancetta. Cook for about 1 minute, stirring almost constantly with a wooden spoon.
2. Transfer the entire contents of the skillet to the saucepan with the tomato sauce, and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Recommended pasta A shape with crevices or hollows, such as ruote di carro (“cartwheels”), or conchiglie, or fusilli, would be a good choice.
Tomato Sauce with
Sautéed Vegetables and Olive Oil
THIS IS A DENSER, darker sauce than the preceding two, cooked longer over a base of sautéed vegetables.
For 6 servings
2 pounds fresh, ripe tomatoes, prepared as described, OR 2 cups canned imported Italian plum tomatoes, cut up, with their juice
⅓cup extra virgin olive oil
⅓ cup chopped onion
⅓ cup chopped carrot
⅓ cup chopped celery
Salt
1 to 1½ pounds pasta
Recommended pasta Most factory-made pasta will carry this sauce well, in particular substantial shapes such as rigatoni, ridged penne, or bucatini.
1. If using fresh tomatoes: Put the prepared tomatoes in an uncovered saucepan and cook at a very slow simmer for about 1 hour. Stir from time to time, mashing any pieces of tomato against the sides of the pan with the back of a wooden spoon. Transfer to a bowl with all their juices.
If using canned tomatoes: Proceed with Step 2, and add the tomatoes where indicated in Step 3.
2. Wipe the saucepan dry with paper towels. Put in the olive oil and the chopped onion, and turn on the heat to medium. Cook and stir the onion until it becomes colored a very pale gold, add the carrot and celery, and cook at lively heat for another minute, stirring once or twice to coat the vegetables well.
3. Add the cooked fresh tomatoes or the canned, a large pinch of salt, stir thoroughly, and adjust heat to cook in the uncovered pan at a gentle, but steady simmer. If using fresh tomatoes, cook for 15 to 20 minutes; if using the canned, simmer for 45 minutes. Stir from time to time. Before turning off the heat, taste and correct for salt.
Note May be frozen when done.
Tomato Sauce with Heavy Cream
For 6 servings
⅓ cup butter
3 tablespoons each onion, carrot, celery, all chopped very fine
2½ pounds fresh, ripe tomatoes, prepared by the food mill method, OR 2½ cups canned imported Italian plum tomatoes, with their juice
Salt
½ cup heavy whipping cream
1 to 1½ pounds pasta
Freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese for the table
Recommended pasta Here is an ideal tomato sauce for stuffed fresh pasta in such versions as Tortelloni Stuffed with Swiss Chard, Prosciutto, and Ricotta, Tortelli Stuffed with Parsley and Ricotta, Green Tortellini with Meat and Ricotta Stuffing, or Spinach and Ricotta Gnocchi. Serve with grated Parmesan.
1. Put all the ingredients except for the heavy cream into a saucepan and cook, uncovered, at the merest simmer for 45 minutes. Stir from time to time with a wooden spoon. At this point, if using canned tomatoes, purée them through a food mill back into the saucepan.
Note May be frozen up to this point.
2. Adjust heat so that the simmer picks up a little speed. Add the heavy cream. Stir thoroughly and cook for about