Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking - Marcella Hazan [84]
Skin the tomatoes raw, using a swiveling-blade peeler, split them in half, scoop out the seeds, then dice them very fine. Put the tomatoes in the bowl where the pasta will later be tossed, together with one or two large pinches of salt and the garlic, olive oil, and chili pepper from the preceding recipe. Cook the pasta with an average amount of salt. Toss the cooked drained pasta in the bowl, separating and turning the strands over and over in the oil.
Recommended pasta For both raw versions of aio e oio, thin spaghetti, spaghettini, is the pasta of choice.
Cauliflower Sauce with Garlic, Oil, and Chili Pepper
For 4 to 6 servings
1 head cauliflower, about 1½ pounds
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 large garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
6 flat anchovy fillets (preferably the ones prepared at home), chopped very fine
Chopped hot red chili pepper, to taste
Salt
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 to 1½ pounds pasta
Recommended pasta Penne, the quill-shaped macaroni, either in the smooth or ridged version, would be the most appealing choice.
1. Strip the cauliflower of all its leaves except for a few of the very tender inner ones. Rinse it in cold water and cut it in two.
2. Bring 4 to 5 quarts of water to boil, put in the cauliflower, and cook it until it is tender, but not mushy, about 25 to 30 minutes. Prod it with a fork to test for doneness. When cooked, drain and set aside.
3. Put water in a saucepan, and bring it to a lively simmer.
4. Put the oil and garlic in a medium sauté pan, turn on the heat to medium, and cook until the garlic becomes colored a light, golden brown. Remove the pan from the burner, place it over the saucepan of simmering water, and add to it the chopped anchovies. Cook, stirring and mashing the anchovies with the back of a wooden spoon against the sides of the pan to dissolve them as much as possible into a paste. Return the sauté pan to the burner over medium heat and cook for another half minute, stirring frequently.
5. Add the drained, boiled cauliflower, breaking it up quickly with a fork into pieces not bigger than a small nut. Turn it thoroughly in the oil to coat it well, mashing some of it to a pulp with the back of the spoon.
6. Add the chopped chili pepper and salt. Turn up the heat, and cook for a few minutes more, stirring frequently.
7. Toss with cooked drained pasta. Add the chopped parsley, toss once or twice again, then serve immediately.
Ahead-of-time note You can prepare the sauce several hours in advance up to this point. Do not refrigerate it. Reheat it gently when the pasta is nearly ready to be drained and tossed.
Broccoli and Anchovy Sauce
For 6 servings
A large bunch fresh broccoli, about 1 pound
⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil
6 flat anchovy fillets (preferably the ones prepared at home), chopped very fine
Chopped hot red chili pepper, to taste
1½ pounds pasta
2 tablespoons freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
¼ cup freshly grated romano cheese
Recommended pasta A chewy, handmade pasta from Apulia known as orecchiette—it looks like miniature saucers—is the natural match for this earthy broccoli sauce. Orecchiette can be made at home, but it is also available in shops that specialize in imported Italian products. An excellent alternative to orecchiette is fusilli or conchiglie.
1. Detach the broccoli florets from the stalks, but do not discard the stalks. Pare the stalks, wash the stalks and florets, and cook them in salted, boiling water until just tender when prodded with a fork.
2. Drain the broccoli, break up the florets into smaller pieces, and cut the stalks into large dice. Set aside.
3. Put water in a saucepan, and bring it to a lively simmer.
4. Put the oil in a sauté pan and turn on the heat to low. When the oil begins to warm up, place the pan over the saucepan of simmering water, double-boiler fashion, and add the chopped anchovies. Cook,