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Evicted From Eternity_ The Restructuring of Modern Rome - Michael Herzfeld [0]

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EVICTED FROM ETERNITY

EVICTED FROM ETERNITY

The Restructuring of Modern Rome

MICHAEL HERZFELD

FOR STANLEY J. TAMBIAH

who insisted I did this first, with gratitude and affection

CONTENTS

Preface and Acknowledgments xi

Overture: Encountering the Eternal City I

i . Sin and the City 7

Genealogies of Imperfection 8

Monti: Paradoxes of Poverty 9

Sociable Spaces 14

Meeting the People 15

The Village in the City 17

Agonies and Agonistics 22

The Cadences of a Cultural Preserve 27

2. Popolo and Population 39

The Artisans 39

The Shopkeepers 47

Intellectuals and Politicians 49

3. The Wages of Original Sin 53

Accountability and Accommodation: The Pragmatics of Original Sin 53

Original Sinners or Elder Brothers? 57

The Dialectics of Casuistry and Tolerance 61

A Passion for the Past 67

4. Refractions of Social Life 75

Segmentation and Subsidiarity 76

The Civic and the Civil 79

Association Life 85

The Premises of Conflict 89

Theaters of Piety and Peculation 101

A Clergy Scorned 110

S. Life and Law in a Flawed State 115

Laws and Regulations 115

The Limits of Law 118

The (Disreputable) Origins of Legal Loopholes 122

Indulgent Complicities 128

Forgiveness and Calculation 133

Sacred Images and Sinful Spaces 140

6. Scandals of Sociability 143

Friends Who Strangle 143

The Cultivation of Fear 147

Restitution and Redemption 151

Friends Best Avoided 159

A Family Friend? 162

Local Narratives: Swaggering Victims 165

Credit and Default 167

Banking on Fear 172

Tactful Silences 175

7. Extortionate Civilities 181

Accommodations Civil and Civic 182

Discommoding Complicities 183

Uncivil Pleasantries, Unpleasant Civilities 187

Culture and Custom 19o

Peaceful Politics 195

Condominial Civilities 198

Lessons in Civic Civility 212

Spatial and Stylistic Violence 214

8. The Fine Art of Denunciation 219

The Logic of Denunciation 220

Performances of Policing 227

Fractured Authority: The Multiplicity of Policing 234

Extorting Coffee and Campari 238

9. Tearing the Social Fabric 253

Renters and Owners 253

Lawyers and Illegalities 257

Eviction and Evasion: The High Stakes of Time and Place 263

Gentrification and the Last Frontier 266

Endgame 296

Coda: The Future of Eternity 301

Notes 313

References 343

Index 357

PREFACE AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

his book is the labor of a love deepened by the realization that Rome, despite its magnificence, is also splendidly, sometimes tragically, a place steeped in all the weaknesses of the human condition. My parents first took me there when I was a schoolboy and marked my life with a passion for this extraordinary place that has only grown with the years. I have tried to convey this powerful affect, along with the Romans' salty humor and gorgeous architectural frenzies, their harsh social realities and their warm gregariousness, the appealing fragility of their lives and the towering strength and self-confidence with which they meet its disappointments as well as its excitements. Monti, the sector of Rome about which I write in these pages, welcomed me to a world strongly marked by these human dimensions. No anthropologist, no scholar-indeed, no sentient human being-could ask for more of any place.

In the work that is laid out here, many people played their parts. Lists are invidious and someone is sure to be omitted, simply because there were so many who enthusiastically supported my project; and because so many of the conversations I had with them continue to this day, sometimes briefly interrupted, but always insistently returning to the themes of a shared passion. A few people nonetheless made especially sustained efforts, and I want to record my appreciation of their counsel, insights, and support: Loredana Acca, Paolo Berdini, Carlo Cellamare, Adriana Goni, Luigi Lombardi Satriani, Berardino Palumbo, Andreina Ricci, Paolo Sciar- roni, Riccardo Troisi, and the entire Valeri family (Vincenzo, Francesco, Andrea, and Paola). Certain colleagues also offered helpful advice on specific technical questions; these include the economist Ricardo

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