Fire It Up - Andrew Schloss [118]
STEAKS: Made by cutting across the body through the skeleton. If the cut is made across the middle part of the body, the steak will have a horseshoe shape. If it is taken from the tail end, it will be oval. Tail steaks are more flavorful than center-cut fish steaks. The steaks of very large fish, like tuna and swordfish, are crosscut from a fillet, so they do not contain bones.
LEAN, DELICATE WHITE FISH FILLETS
Soy-Marinated Opakapaka with Pineapple-Ginger Salsa
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
In Hawaii, the local crimson-skinned snapper goes by the name opakapaka. This elegant fish has a refined flavor enjoyed wherever people fish the Pacific waters, but Hawaiians treasure it the most. On the islands, it’s sometimes served raw as sashimi, especially in winter when the fish’s fat content increases for warmth. Raw or cooked, Hawaiian pink snapper has light pink, delicious flesh that marries beautifully with tropical fruit. A brief dip in lemon soy marinade and a topping of juicy, chunky pineapple salsa make this an ideal grilled summer dish. If opakapaka isn’t available, use another snapper variety, such as red snapper (onaga) or gray snapper (uku).
INGREDIENTS:
4 opakapaka fillets (each at least 6 ounces), at least ½ inch thick
1 cup Lemon Soy Marinade
Pineapple-Ginger Salsa:
¾ cup finely chopped fresh or canned pineapple
½ teaspoons minced fresh ginger
½ tomato, cored, seeded, and chopped
¼ small red bell pepper, seeded and chopped
½ jalapeño chile pepper, stemmed, seeded, and minced
1 scallion (green and white parts), finely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh Thai basil or cilantro
Juice of 1 lime
1 teaspoon brown sugar, light or dark
¼ teaspoon coarse salt
DIRECTIONS:
Rinse the opakapaka and put in a 1-gallon zipper-lock bag. Add the marinade, press out the air, and seal. Refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours. Remove the opakapaka from the refrigerator and let marinate at room temperature for another 30 minutes.
For the salsa: Mix all the ingredients in a serving bowl and set aside.
Light a grill for direct medium-high heat, about 425°F. Preheat a fish basket on the grill. When hot, brush the grill basket and coat liberally with oil. Put the opakapaka in the hot basket, skin-side down, and put the basket directly over the heat. Grill until the fish looks opaque on the surface, but is still filmy and moist in the center (about 125°F on an instant-read thermometer), 3 to 4 minutes per side.
Remove to a platter or plates and serve with the salsa.
KNOW-HOW: SLASHING FISH SKIN
Slashing a fish through its thicker parts helps the fish cook more evenly. It also gets the seasoning deeper into the flesh and allows you to peek into the flesh to check for doneness. Use a sharp knife to make diagonal slashes through the skin and down to the bone on each side. Slash in 2-inch intervals along the thickest part of the fish.
LEAN, DELICATE WHITE FISH FILLETS
Grilled Tilapia Jalapeño Poppers
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Along with catfish, tilapia is among the most extensively aquacultured fish in North America. It’s also one of the leanest white fish fillets, with a honey-like sweetness and fine texture, which make it ideal as a stuffing. In a whimsical spin on a bar food classic, this recipe combines tilapia’s somewhat creamy texture with melting Jack cheese, minced onions, and fresh cilantro inside bacon-wrapped jalapeños. Serve with Salsa Ranchero or your favorite salsa.
INGREDIENTS:
12 toothpicks
1 small tilapia fillet (about 3 ounces)
3 tablespoons cream cheese, softened
3 tablespoons finely shredded Monterey Jack cheese
2 tablespoons grated onion (grate on a box grater on the medium holes)
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro
12 large jalapeño chile peppers, with stems attached
6 thick strips bacon, halved crosswise
DIRECTIONS:
Soak the toothpicks in cold water for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, finely chop the tilapia, and then mix in a bowl with the cream cheese, Monterey Jack, onion, and cilantro. Set aside.
Hold a jalapeño by the stem and slit lengthwise from stem to tip. Gently