Fire It Up - Andrew Schloss [133]
KNOW-HOW: BUYING HALIBUT
The largest flatfish in the sea, halibut has been known to live for more than forty years and weigh upward of 700 pounds. Fishermen call the biggest ones barn doors. But bigger means tougher. Pacific halibut, especially those from Alaska, tend to be firmer and chewier than Atlantic halibut, which have all but disappeared because of overfishing. When buying halibut fillets, look for pieces less than 1 inch thick for the most tender and delicate texture.
LEAN, FIRM FLAT FISH STEAKS
Lemon-Brined Halibut with Guajillo-Blueberry Salsa
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
The largest flatfish in the sea, halibut has been known to live for more than forty years and weigh upwards of 700 pounds. Fishermen call the biggest ones barn doors, which a halibut resembles as its huge flat body rests on the ocean floor, waiting to close in on small fish, squid, and octopus. Cooked halibut has snow-white flesh with extra-large, satiny smooth flakes. This fish is so big that it can be cut into roasts and loins in addition to steaks and fillets. You may also find halibut cheeks from time to time. Brining the fish keeps it extra-moist on the grill, and pairing it with a puree of rehydrated guajillo chiles and fresh blueberries brings depth to its slightly sweet flavor, adding a little earthiness, a little smoke, and a touch of tartness. If you like, put the lemon wedges directly on the grill to char them a bit before serving.
INGREDIENTS:
1¼ cups Lemon-Oregano Brine
4 halibut steaks (6 to 8 ounces each)
Guajillo-Blueberry Salsa:
2 ounces dried guajillo chiles (8 to 10), stemmed, split open, and seeded
3 garlic cloves, unpeeled
½ teaspoon dried oregano leaves
⅛ teaspoon ground cumin
⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper
Pinch of ground cinnamon
1 ¾ cups fish broth or chicken broth
1 tablespoon olive oil
½ to 1 teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¾ cup blueberries
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano
4 lemon wedges
DIRECTIONS:
Put the brine and halibut in a 1-gallon zipper-lock bag. Press out the air, seal, and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours.
For the salsa: Light a grill for direct medium heat, about 400°F. Open the seeded chiles and put them flat on the grill. Press down with a spatula and toast until fragrant and nicely grill-marked, about 30 seconds to 1 minute per side. Transfer the toasted chiles to a bowl and cover with hot water. Let soak until soft and pliable, about 30 minutes.
While the chiles are toasting, add the unpeeled garlic cloves to the grill and cook until the skins are blackened all over, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove and let cool, and then peel.
Drain the soaked chiles and discard the water. Transfer to a blender along with the garlic, oregano, cumin, black pepper, cinnamon, and ¾ cup of the broth. Blend until smooth, and then press the mixture through a medium-mesh strainer into a bowl.
Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the chile mixture and simmer until reduced by about one-third, 6 to 7 minutes. Add the remaining 1 cup broth and reduce the heat to low. Partially cover and simmer, stirring now and then, until the flavors blend and the salsa thickens slightly yet remains pourable, about 40 minutes. Stir in ½ teaspoon of the sugar, the salt, and blueberries and reduce heat to keep warm. Taste and stir in additional sugar if necessary.
Heat the grill for direct medium-high heat, about 450°F. Pat the halibut dry and let rest for 15 minutes. Rub the olive oil all over the halibut.
Brush the grill grate and coat with oil. Grill the halibut directly over the