Fire It Up - Andrew Schloss [136]
Shrimp Counts
Shrimp are sized for sale according to the number of them in a pound. The higher the count, the smaller the shrimp. Since consumers judge by size, shrimp are also given market names like small and jumbo. Jumbo shrimp and larger are best for the grill.
SOFT-SHELL CRAB
Grilled Lemon Soft-Shell Crabs with Herbed Tzatziki
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Soft-shell crabs have just molted, or shed their shells, in order to grow new ones, which renders the outside of the crab soft enough to eat. Fresh soft-shells are only available from late spring through early fall, and demand is high. (They are also available frozen, but freezing can render the meat somewhat stringy in texture.) Unlike hard-shell blue crabs, soft-shells can be eaten whole and grilled directly over the heat from start to finish. Soaking them in briny lemon juice helps keep the crabmeat moist. A creamy Greek sauce provides some contrast with the crunch of the blistered surface.
INGREDIENTS:
8 live soft-shell crabs (about 5 ounces each), cleaned (see Know-How, below)
5 cups Lemon-Oregano Brine
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
¾ cup Herbed Tzatziki
Cooking spray
4 lemon wedges
DIRECTIONS:
Put the cleaned crabs in a roasting pan just large enough to hold them. Add the brine and red pepper flakes, and then cover and refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours. Make the tzatziki and let stand as you fire up the grill.
Light a grill for direct medium-high heat, about 425°F.
Pluck the crabs from the brine with tongs and stash them in a big bowl. Discard the brine. Coat the crabs generously all over with cooking spray. Brush the grill grate and coat with oil. Grill the crabs, upside down, directly over the heat until nicely grill-marked, 3 minutes. Flip and grill, right-side up, until nicely grill-marked, another 2 minutes.
Serve with the tzatziki and lemon wedges.
KNOW-HOW: CLEANING SOFT-SHELL CRABS
Store soft-shell crabs in the refrigerator, which will render them listless enough to clean. Put a crab on a plate or platter to catch the juices and use kitchen scissors to cut the eyes from the top shell, removing as little of the top shell as possible. Cut off the stiff part of the mouth on the beige underside, removing as little as possible of the more tender shell.
Lift and twist or cut off the apron on the underside. Male crabs have a T-shaped apron; females have more rounded aprons. Flip the crab right-side up, curl back one of the pointed sides of the top shell, and snip off the spongy, finger-shaped gills underneath. Repeat on the other side.
WHOLE BLUE CRABS
Coriander-Brined Blue Crabs on the Grill
MAKES 3 TO 4 SERVINGS
Live blue crab season runs from April through November, giving you plenty of time to enjoy these ocean beauties. We prefer to grill crabs in the shell, but the meat of small blue crabs can stick to the shells so much that picking them clean becomes a huge bother. If you want to cook them outside, grill-steaming makes a great alternative. Basically you just set a roasting pan on the grill, pour your brine or another flavored liquid into the pan, and add the crabs. The liquid will infuse the crabs with enticing aromas. Cumin and lime are some of our favorite flavors with blue crab.
INGREDIENTS:
12 live blue crabs
5 cups Coriander Brine
2 tablespoons Shellfish Seasoning
DIRECTIONS:
Put the crabs in a roasting pan just large enough to hold them. Add the brine, cover, and refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours.
Light a grill for direct high heat, about 500°F.
Pluck the crabs from the brine with tongs and stash them in a big bowl in the refrigerator. Set a roasting rack