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By Root 645 0

creatures, octopuses demonstrate problem-solving skills during scientific tests. It’s a gifted animal that evades even our most concerted efforts to cook it. Often, the octopus ends up being as tough and inscrutable on the plate as it is in the ocean. The risk of toughening the meat is doubly great on the grill. We’ve found that best way to grill an octopus is to simmer it first until tender. You can simmer it up to 2 days ahead of grilling time and keep it refrigerated. It also helps to use young octopus, which has more tender meat than mature octopus. You can grill the cephalopod, head and all, but many prefer to serve only the tentacles. Either way, separate the head from the tentacles, then serve what you like. Both parts will marry well with the flavors of orange, lemon, mint, olives, and arugula in this Sicilian-style recipe. Most octopuses are sold cleaned and frozen, but if you have fresh octopus (lucky you!), see the Know-How below.

INGREDIENTS:

2½ pounds cleaned and frozen baby octopus

2 cups full-bodied red wine, such as Pinot Noir or Cabernet Sauvignon

1 small onion, sliced

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

½ teaspoon whole cloves

1 bay leaf

1 cup Sicilian Citrus Marinade

¼ cup pitted and coarsely chopped Sicilian or Cerignola green olives

3 ounces baby arugula leaves

1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint

Coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

DIRECTIONS:

Rinse the octopus, and then put in a soup pot with the wine and enough water to cover. Add the onion, peppercorns, cloves, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil over high heat, and then reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer gently until the octopus is tender enough for a knife to enter easily, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Drain the octopus and discard the liquid or strain and reserve for seafood stock or risotto. When the octopus is cool enough to handle, cut the tentacles away at the head.

Combine the octopus and marinade in a 1-gallon zipper-lock bag. Press out the air, seal the bag, and refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours.

Light a grill for direct medium-high heat, about 450°F.

Remove the octopus from the marinade, pat dry, and let stand at room temperature for 20 minutes. Strain the marinade into a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add the olives and remove from the heat.

Brush the grill grate and coat with oil. Grill the octopus directly over the heat until nicely grill-marked, 3 to 4 minutes per side, pressing gently on the octopus to get a good sear.

Arrange the arugula on a platter or plates and top with the octopus. Spoon some of the warm sauce, including a good amount of olives, on each serving. Sprinkle with the mint, salt, and black pepper.

KNOW-HOW: CLEANING FRESH OCTOPUS

Insert your fingers into the body (the head), and turn inside out. Scrape away and discard the ink sac and other innards, and then rinse the body well. Turn the body right-side out, and remove the eyes and black mouth (beak), located at the center, where the tentacles meet the body. Scrub the tentacles very well with coarse salt, rinse, and repeat until the tentacles are very clean. The salt and scrubbing also helps to tenderize the octopus a little.

SQUID

Grilled Squid Salad

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Salads are best made with your mind wide open. Almost anything can go in, and they’re a good opportunity to try new flavor combinations. Squid makes a great salad; its relatively mild taste becomes amiably acquainted with all manner of ingredients. Here it pairs up with oranges, olives, and pine nuts for a Mediterranean flavor, and we toss in some avocado for richness. Orange vinaigrette made with walnut oil adds to the salad’s sunny disposition.

INGREDIENTS:

1½ pounds cleaned small squid, bodies intact

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

¼ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper

6 cups mesclun greens

2 shallots, thinly sliced

½ cup Orange Vinaigrette

1 seedless orange, cut into supremes (see Know-How, below)

1 ripe avocado, pitted and cut into ½-inch cubes

⅓ cup pitted black Gaeta or kalamata olives, halved lengthwise

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