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the corn and scallions with the oil, season with ¼ teaspoon of the salt, and grill directly over medium-high heat until tender and charred in spots, turning often. The scallions will take 4 to 6 minutes; the corn 8 to 10 minutes. Remove to a cutting board. Stand the corn on the stem end and cut the kernels from the cobs. Scrape the cobs with the back of the knife to release some of the corn “milk.” Scrape half of the kernels and all of the milky bits into a small food processor. Coarsely chop the scallions and add to the processor. Process until the corn is pureed and the scallions are finely chopped. Scrape into a bowl and stir in the remaining corn kernels, cheeses, garlic, and cilantro.

Carefully spoon the stuffing into the chiles, plumping up each one.

Put the flour in one shallow dish, the eggs in another, and mix the breadcrumbs, cornmeal, ancho, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt in a third. Carefully dredge each chile first in the flour to coat, shaking of the excess, then in the egg, then in the crumbs.

Generously coat the breaded chiles all over with cooking spray. Brush the grill grate and coat with oil. Reduce a gas grill to medium or place the chiles over the medium-heat area on a charcoal or wood grill. Grill the breaded chiles, slit-side down, directly over the heat until nicely browned and grill-marked, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn and grill until nicely browned and grill-marked on the other side, 3 to 4 minutes.

Remove to plates and serve with the salsa.

ZUCCHINI

Grilled Zucchini with Brown Butter and Oranges

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

If zucchini isn’t your favorite vegetable, try it grilled. When exposed to a hot fire, its subtle green sweetness concentrates and its meaty pulp gets firmer. Any flavorful ingredients rubbed on the surface sink easily into the flesh. In this recipe, that means a rich nutty mixture of browned butter and orange juice. It’s really delicious. Just be sure not to overcook the zucchini, or it will turn mushy.

INGREDIENTS:

2 medium zucchini (about 6 ounces each)

1 tablespoon olive oil

Coarse salt and ground black pepper

½ cup Orange Brown Butter

1 orange, cut into supremes

DIRECTIONS:

Light a grill for direct medium-high heat, about 400°F.

Cut the zucchini lengthwise into slabs about ⅜ inch thick. Coat the slabs all over with the oil, then season with salt and pepper.

Brush the grill grate and coat with oil. Grill the zucchini directly over the heat until nicely grill-marked yet somewhat firm, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Remove to a platter, spoon on the brown butter, and top with the orange supremes.

DELICATA SQUASH

Grill-Roasted Delicata Squash with Cardamom and Thyme

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Delicata squash is, well, delicate. Its soft and tender flesh spoons up easily when grill-roasted. Its flavor is savory, sweet, and scented with musk–an alluring combination. This makes a delicious side dish, but you can make it a main dish by stuffing the cavities with bits of grilled lamb and/or rice. If delicatas aren’t available, use this simple grill-roasting technique for other orange-fleshed squash, like acorn and butternut; they’ll just take a little longer to become tender.

INGREDIENTS:

2 medium delicata squash

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

½ teaspoon coarse salt

⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper

DIRECTIONS:

Light a grill for indirect high heat, about 425°F.

Cut the squash in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds and strings. Prick the flesh with a fork in a few spots without going all the way down to the skin (this helps the squash absorb the seasonings).

Combine the melted butter, thyme, cardamom, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Brush all over the cut sides of the squash, and then divide the remainder among the cavities.

Brush the grill grate and coat with oil. Put the squash on the grill away from the heat over a drip pan filled with ½ inch of hot water. Cover the grill and cook until the squash is tender (a fork should slide in and out of the flesh easily), about 20 to 30 minutes.

Allow