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shape well, which makes them great for poaching. But in this recipe, we recommend creamy-fleshed pears like Comice or Bartlett. Their smooth texture purees into a luscious, velvety soup. The combination of pears and mushrooms may seem odd at first, but Italians have been pairing mushrooms with peaches, apples, plums, and other fruits for centuries. The woodsy taste of porcinis is perfect with pears but if you can’t find them, use large cremini mushrooms. For the Gorgonzola, try mild and creamy Gorgonzola dolce, aged only about three months. Stronger aged Gorgonzolas will also work.

INGREDIENTS:

2 cups boiling water

½ ounce dried porcini mushrooms

4 just-ripe pears, such as Comice or Bartlett

1 tablespoon olive oil

4 ounces fresh porcini mushrooms

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 large sprig fresh rosemary

¼ cup dry sherry

2 cups chicken broth

1 tablespoon honey

3 ounces mascarpone or cream cheese

Kosher salt

½ cup crumbled Gorgonzola cheese, preferably Gorgonzola dolce

DIRECTIONS:

Light a grill for direct medium-high heat, about 400°F. If the bars of your grill grate are widely spaced, preheat a grill tray on the grill.

Pour the boiling water over the dried porcini in a heat-proof bowl and soak for 20 minutes. When reconstituted, pluck the mushrooms from the liquid with a slotted spoon, reserving the soaking liquid, and finely chop the mushrooms.

Peel and core the pears, and then slice lengthwise about ½ inch thick. Toss immediately with the oil in a shallow dish. Slice the fresh porcinis about ⅜ inch thick with some stem attached to each slice; if they are too small, just halve them lengthwise. Toss gently with the pears and oil to coat.

Brush the grill grate and coat with oil (oil the grill tray if using). Grill the pears and porcini directly over the heat until nicely grill-marked, 3 to 4 minutes per side.

Melt the butter in a medium soup pot over medium heat. Add the grilled pears to the pot along with the rosemary sprig. (Reserve the grilled porcini for garnish.) Cook the pears for 2 minutes, and then add the sherry. Cook until most of the liquid evaporates, about 5 minutes. If the mushroom soaking liquid is very gritty, strain it through cheesecloth or a wet coffee filter. Pour the liquid into the pot, leaving behind any grit. Add the chopped reconstituted mushrooms, chicken broth, and honey. Simmer gently until the flavors blend, about 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and remove the rosemary sprig. Stir in the mascarpone or cream cheese and puree the soup with a stick blender or in an upright blender. Season with salt.

Ladle the soup into bowls and top with the reserved grilled porcini and the Gorgonzola.

APRICOTS

Amaretto-Seared Apricots with Almond Praline

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Stone fruits like apricots grill beautifully. Just halve them, remove the stone, and sear, cut-side down, until grill-marked. You can glaze them, stuff them, or flavor them almost any which way. Almonds and apricots share similar flavor compounds, making them a natural match. Serve these with almond-scented whipped cream.

INGREDIENTS:

Almond Praline:

¾ cup sugar

2 teaspoons water

½ cup almonds with skins

8 ripe apricots

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons honey

1 tablespoon amaretto liqueur

½ teaspoon ground allspice

¼ teaspoon pure vanilla extract

DIRECTIONS:

For the almond praline: Combine the sugar, water, and almonds in a small heavy saucepan over low heat. Cook without stirring until the sugar is deep amber (about 300°F). Pour the mixture onto a greased baking sheet, spreading it quickly with a wooden spoon. Let cool completely, and then crack into small pieces. Chop the praline to the size of large crumbs in a minichopper or put the praline in a plastic bag and crush with a heavy rolling pin or pan.

Light a grill for direct medium heat, about 375°F. Brush the grill grate and coat with oil. Halve and pit the apricots.

In a small microwaveable bowl, combine the butter, honey, amaretto, allspice, and vanilla. Microwave on high power just until the butter melts, about 30 seconds.