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VARIATIONS

Orange-Lime Vinaigrette: (Best with fish, shellfish, chicken, turkey.) Replace 1 tablespoon of the raspberry vinegar with 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice. Replace the basil with 2 teaspoons chopped fresh cilantro and 2 teaspoons chopped fresh mint.

Red Currant Vinaigrette: (Best with fish, shellfish, chicken, turkey, game meats.) Replace the raspberry vinegar with sherry vinegar. Replace the marmalade with red currant preserves.

Cranberry Mustard Vinaigrette: (Best with poultry, pork, and cheese.) Replace the marmalade with whole-berry cranberry sauce, increase the mustard to 1 teaspoon, and replace the basil with rosemary leaves.

Jalapeño-Lime Vinaigrette: (Best with fish, shellfish, chicken, turkey.) Replace the raspberry vinegar with lime juice and the walnut oil with pumpkin seed oil, avocado oil, or fruity olive oil. Replace the marmalade with ⅓ cup jalapeño jelly and the basil with cilantro or mint or a combination.

Red Wine Vinaigrette

Best with beef, veal, lamb, game meats

MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP

1⅓ cups fruity red wine, such as Syrah or Merlot

3 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Coarse salt and ground black pepper

Reduce the wine in a skillet over medium-high heat until thick and there is about ⅓ cup left. Scrape into a small bowl and mix in the balsamic vinegar and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.

VARIATION

Port Wine Vinaigrette: (Best with game meats.) Substitute port for the red wine.

Pourable Herbed Mayonnaise

Best with beef carpaccio or tartare, shellfish, fish

MAKES ABOUT 1¼ CUPS

1 large fresh egg

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

¼ teaspoon coarse salt

Pinch of ground white or black pepper

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh tarragon

2 to 4 tablespoons whole milk

Combine the egg, lemon juice, mustard, salt, pepper, and ¼ cup of the oil in a food processor. Process for a few seconds and then, with the machine running, gradually add the remaining oil in a thin, steady steam. Scrape down the sides and process until thickened and smooth, 10 to 15 seconds.

Scrape into a bowl and stir in the parsley, tarragon, and just enough milk to make the sauce pourable. Cover and refrigerate for up to 1 week.

VARIATIONS

Blender Mayonnaise: (Best with shellfish, fish.) Omit the milk, parsley, and tarragon.

Caper Mayonnaise: (Best with shellfish and fish.) Omit the milk. Add 1½ tablespoons small drained capers (chop them if large) and 3 minced garlic cloves along with the herbs.

Tartar Sauce: (Best with shellfish and fish.) Make the Caper Mayonnaise (above) and add 2 tablespoons minced fresh dill or sweet pickles.

Gribiche Sauce

Best with fish, vegetables

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

2 tablespoons sour cream

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 hard-cooked large egg, finely chopped

2 tablespoons small drained capers, finely chopped if large

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon

1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot

Coarse salt and ground black pepper

Mix everything in a small bowl; cover and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.

White Steak Sauce

Best with veal, pork, chicken, turkey, shellfish

MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP

¼ cup Lea & Perrins Marinade for Chicken

1 teaspoon light brown sugar

½ cup mayonnaise

1 teaspoon brown mustard

1 garlic clove, minced

Dash of cayenne pepper

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted and still hot

Stir the Worcestershire sauce and sugar together in a small bowl until the sugar dissolves. Mix in the mayonnaise, mustard, garlic, and cayenne, stirring until smooth. Mix in the butter. Use within 2 hours, or cover and refrigerate for up to 1 week. Warm and whisk together before serving.

Grilled Lemon “Tartar” Sauce

Best with shellfish and fish

MAKES ABOUT 1¼ CUPS

1 large lemon, ends removed

2 teaspoons coarse salt

½ teaspoon ground black pepper