Fire It Up - Andrew Schloss [56]
INGREDIENTS:
3 cups wood chips, such as apple or cherry, soaked in water for 30 minutes
1 boneless veal breast (3½ pounds)
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons Coriander-Ginger Rub
2 cups fresh bread cubes (about½-inch square)
1 tablespoon olive oil
8 ounces loose sweet Italian sausage
½ cup finely chopped onion
½ cup finely chopped celery
½ cup finely chopped apple
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
2 large eggs, beaten
½ cup heavy cream
1½ cups chicken broth
½ cup apple cider
½ cup apple cider vinegar
1 cup dry white wine
2 teaspoons cornstarch
2 teaspoons cold water
DIRECTIONS:
Cut a horizontal pocket in the veal breast, starting at the thickest end and leaving a 1-inch border of meat. Sprinkle ¼ cup of the rub all over the inside and outside of the veal. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour.
Light a grill for indirect medium-low heat, about 300°F, with smoke. Put the bread cubes on a grill tray, put the tray on the grill away from the heat, and toast until the bread is dry, about 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the sausage and cook until lightly browned all over, 6 to 8 minutes, breaking up the meat with a spoon. Remove to a plate. Add the onion and celery to the skillet and cook until softened, 5 minutes. Add the apple, garlic, ginger, and 1 tablespoon of the remaining spice rub and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat.
Beat the eggs in a large bowl and stir in the cream and ½ cup of the broth. Stir in the sausage, apple mixture, and toasted bread cubes. Let stand until the bread absorbs the liquid, about 10 minutes.
Spoon the stuffing into the veal pocket and tie with kitchen string to help close the opening.
Combine the cider, cider vinegar, and remaining 1 tablespoon rub in a cup for a mop sauce.
Brush the grill grate and coat with oil. Put 1½ cups of the wood chips in the grill. When you see smoke, put the stuffed veal, fatty-side up, on the grill away from the heat and over a drip pan filled with ¼ inch hot water. Cover the grill and cook for 2 hours. After the first 45 minutes, drizzle with the mop sauce, then drizzle about every 30 minutes after that. Replenish the wood chips when the old ones die out, about once an hour. After 2 hours of cooking, wrap the veal breast in heavy-duty foil and return to the grill. Cover and cook until fork-tender, 1 to 1½ hours more.
Remove the veal to a platter and unwrap. Let rest for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, drain any liquid from the foil or platter into a small saucepan. Add the drippings from the drip pan, the remaining 1 cup chicken broth, and the wine. Boil until reduced by one-third. Whisk together the cornstarch and water in a cup, then whisk the mixture into the liquid broth and cook until thickened, about 2 minutes.
Cut the veal into slices about ½ inch thick, removing the string as you go. Serve with the sauce.
CALF’S LIVER/VARIETY MEAT
Calf’s Liver Skewers with Pancetta and Cipolline
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Calf’s liver is the gateway drug of organ meats. Tender and rich-tasting, it leads to further experimentation with sweetbreads, brains, and calf fries. Don’t be alarmed. It is just food that tastes great; it won’t hurt you. Italians often grill skewers of calf’s liver, and here’s our take on that preparation. We cut the liver into thumb-size pieces, wrap them with sage leaves and pancetta, and spear them, along with tiny cipolline onions. A reduction sauce of Madeira, balsamic, and peach preserves adds just enough sweetness and spark. Be sure to remove the thin membrane from the liver. Butchers sometimes do this for you, but if not, do it yourself or the membrane will toughen on the grill. The liver itself can also overcook easily, leaving you with a dry slab of shoe leather. Cook only until it’s slightly pink in the center. Basic Grilled Polenta makes a good accompaniment.
INGREDIENTS:
4 bamboo or metal skewers
1 pound calf’s liver
16 thin slices pancetta
16 small sage leaves (or half-leaves if large)
8 small cipolline onions, peeled
2 tablespoons