• Choose a category
• All
• Classic-Fiction

All pork benefits from brining, and tougher cuts are frequently mopped (or basted) during grilling. Sweet barbecue sauces are usually served at the table or applied to the meat only after it is done cooking. Premature basting with barbecue sauce is the main cause of incinerated pork (because the sugar in the sauce burns).

Buying Pork

Color and firmness are the most important factors in judging the quality of pork. Look for firm, finely grained, moist meat that has a reddish-pink tint. Pale grayish-pink pork will tend to be dry and flavorless. The more exercised cuts (from the shoulder and leg) will tend to have darker-colored meat than tender cuts. The fat should be white, firm, smooth, and slightly moist.

Try to use pork within 3 days of purchase and store, preferably wrapped in clean butcher or wax paper, in the refrigerator.

TENDERLOIN/LOIN

Pork Tenderloin with Candied Clementine and Rosemary

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

As we’ve noted before, the most tender meat comes from muscles that are rarely used. On four-legged animals, that means the twin muscles that run on either side of the spine inside the rib cage, which control the ability of the animal to arch its back, something four-legged animals never do. Hence the name tenderloin, the most tender and most desirable cut on any animal. As one would expect from an unused muscle group, tenderloins are relatively small in relation to the total weight of an animal. In pork, the whole tenderloin weighs less than a pound, just enough for two portions. Like boneless skinless chicken breasts, pork tenderloins are easy to prepare, cook quickly, and marry well with a range of flavors. In this recipe, we brine them in wine and herbs, and flavor them with orange and Provençal herbs. The grilled pork is served with a bittersweet compote of slow-simmered clementines and pine-fresh rosemary leaves

INGREDIENTS:

1½ cups Riesling Brine

2 pork tenderloins, trimmed of silver skin (12 to 16 ounces each; see Know-How, below)

2 tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon anise seeds, crushed

1 teaspoon cracked pepper

½ teaspoon dried thyme leaves

1 teaspoon garlic salt

3 clementines, sliced and seeded

⅓ cup sugar

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

DIRECTIONS:

Combine the brine and tenderloins in a 1-gallon zipper-lock bag, press out the air, seal, and refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours.

While the tenderloins are brining, mix half the rosemary, the anise seeds, pepper, thyme, and garlic salt in a small bowl; set aside.

Coarsely chop the sliced clementines, retaining as much of the juice as possible. Combine the clementine pieces and sugar in a small saucepan, and cook slowly over low heat until tender, stirring often, about 20 minutes. Stir in 1 teaspoon of the olive oil and the remaining rosemary and cool.

Remove the tenderloins from the brine and pat dry. Rub the tenderloins all over with the remaining tablespoon olive oil and the rosemary and anise seed rub. Loosely cover with foil and let the meat rest for about 1 hour at room temperature.

Light a grill for bilevel high/medium heat, 500/375°F.

Brush the grill grate and coat with oil. Put the pork over the high heat and grill until browned all over, about 1 minute on each of the four sides. Reduce the heat to medium on a gas grill or move the pork to the lower heat on a charcoal or wood grill. Cover the grill and cook until the meat is just firm when poked, and an instant read thermometer registers 145°F, another 4 to 5 minutes.

Transfer to a platter, cover loosely with foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Slice and serve with the candied clementines.

KNOW-HOW:

TRIMMING TENDERLOINS

Although pork tenderloin is a boneless cut with a minimum of tendon, it is covered with a thin, shiny membrane called the silver skin. If left on, the silver skin can cause the tenderloin to curl up during cooking. Remove the silver skin by grabbing it at the thick end of the meat and shaving it