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but they are always brightly acidic and full of fruit. And those are the elements we’re playing with in this light and sultry herb-infused pick-up food. Because Rieslings tend to be low in alcohol (about 8 percent, compared to 13 percent for most chardonnays), it is possible to use a high percentage of wine in the brine without developing a strong alcoholic aftertaste. For that reason we are able to use this brine both as a way to infuse moisture into the chicken before grilling and as a mop to baste on the meat while it cooks, resulting in a finished dish that just about falls from the bone.

INGREDIENTS:

3 cups Riesling Brine, made with tarragon instead of rosemary, and garlic instead of shallots

12 chicken drumsticks (about 4 ounces each), washed and patted dry

1 tablespoon olive oil

Coarsely ground black pepper

3 or 4 sprigs fresh tarragon for garnish

DIRECTIONS:

Combine 2 cups of the brine and the chicken in a 1-gallon zipper-lock bag, press out the air, and seal the bag. Refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours.

Light a grill for indirect medium heat, about 325°F.

Remove the chicken from the brine and discard the brine in the bag. Pat the chicken dry, coat with the oil, and sprinkle all over with the pepper.

Brush the grill grate and coat with oil. Put the chicken over the unheated part of the grill. Cover and cook, turning once or twice and mopping with the remaining 1 cup brine every 10 minutes, until the chicken is no longer pink and the juices run clear, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of a large drumstick (without touching bone) registers about 165°F, about 40 minutes total.

Garnish with fresh tarragon and serve.

BONELESS CHICKEN THIGHS

Grilled Chicken Thighs Stuffed with Fontina and Wrapped in Pancetta

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Boneless, skinless chicken thighs are one of the best (and most economical) cuts for grilling. They cook through quickly, retain moisture even when heated to well-done, are versatile enough to blend with subtle seasonings, and full-flavored enough to stand up to strong marinades or a scorch of hot chiles. They also are the perfect size for stuffing into pretty, individually portioned packets. In this recipe the thighs are stuffed with Italian fontina cheese, not to be confused with Danish fontina, which is more commonly available in the United States. Italian fontina is semisoft and creamy and has a thin brown rind with a stamp of the Matterhorn on the outside. The stuffed thighs are wrapped in a few slices of pancetta. As the thighs grill, the pancetta shrinks and crisps, causing the packets to plump and delivering a deliciously crackled skin with every bite.

INGREDIENTS:

2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 teaspoon coarse salt

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil

8 boneless, skinless chicken thighs (about 4 ounces each), washed and patted dry

8 ounces pancetta, cut into 16 slices

12 ounces Italian fontina cheese, cut into 8 strips

1 tablespoon olive oil

DIRECTIONS:

Light a grill for indirect medium heat, about 325°F.

Mix together the garlic, salt, pepper, and olive oil in a small bowl. Rub the chicken all over with this mixture.

Place 2 pancetta slices on a clean work surface so they are slightly overlapping. Place a chicken thigh in the center, and a strip of cheese in the center of each chicken thigh. Fold the chicken around the cheese, and wrap the pancetta around the chicken thigh. Repeat with the remaining chicken, pancetta, and cheese.

Coat the outside of each “package” with some of the oil.

Brush the grill grate and coat with oil. Put the chicken over the unheated part of the grill, cover, and cook, turning once, until the chicken is no longer pink and the juices run clear (about 165°F on an instant-read thermometer), about 20 minutes total.

Serve 2 thighs to each person.

BONELESS CHICKEN THIGHS

Epazote Grilled Chicken Chili

MAKES 4 MAIN-DISH SERVINGS, OR 6 APPETIZER SERVINGS

Chilis are usually long-simmered stews, but not this one. The fresh ingredients—the chicken and onions—are grilled ahead,