French Provincial Cooking - Elizabeth David [143]
The water of the Vichy region is non-chalky and is therefore said to be particularly satisfactory for the cooking of vegetables, and it is this circumstance which no doubt gives the dish its name. A pinch of bicarbonate of soda in the water helps to produce the same effect.
Carottes Vichy can be served as a garnish to meat or as a separate dish.
CAROTTES À LA CRÈME
CARROTS WITH CREAM SAUCE
Cook the carrots as above and, instead of the final addition of butter, pour a little boiling cream into the saucepan and shake it over the flame until it has slightly thickened.
CAROTTES GLACÉES
GLAZED CARROTS
Glazed carrots are cooked in much the same way as Carottes Vichy but are usually cut in quarters or thick chunks instead of in slices, and a larger proportion of water is needed to cook them. Take care not to put more than a pinch of salt in the water or, when it has evaporated, the carrots will be too salt. Add about a teaspoon of soft sugar with the final lump of butter, and let this mixture cook until it has formed a little thick syrup which coats the carrots, but don’t let it turn to toffee.
CAROTTES À LA NIVERNAISE
GLAZED CARROTS AND ONIONS
Whenever a meat dish is described in a menu as à la nivernaise, it means there are glazed carrots and onions as a garnish.
Cook the carrots as for carottes glacées, adding if possible a little good, clear stock or meat glaze when the water has evaporated. Little glazed onions cooked as described on page 265 are then mixed with the carrots and these vegetables are arranged round a joint of beef or lamb.
SAUTÉ DE CAROTTES ET DE POMMES DE TERRE
SAUTÉ OF CARROTS AND POTATOES
This is a delicious and simple vegetable dish which goes equally well with a roast of lamb, a chicken, or a beef stew.
To 1 lb. of rather large new potatoes, you needs lb. of carrots, 2 or 3 shallots or little onions, parsley, seasonings, and about 2 oz. of butter. Boil the scraped potatoes and carrots separately in salted water until they are only two-thirds cooked. Drain them and cut the potatoes into inch squares and the carrots into thick strips. Chop the peeled shallots or onions, mix all together, and finish cooking them in a frying-pan in the foaming butter, turning the vegetables over and over, and shaking the pan until they are all buttery and beginning to turn crisp. Then lower the heat and cook gently until the potatoes and carrots are tender. Stir in a little chopped parsley just before they are served.
CÉLERIS ÉTUVÉS AU BEURRE
CELERY STEWED IN BUTTER
The old way of preparing whole celery hearts, blanched, then stewed in butter and finally enriched with meat glaze has become a rather costly dish, since at least one heart must be allowed for each person, and celery is now an expensive vegetable.
A more economical way is as follows: having trimmed and washed the celery very thoroughly, cut all except the very coarse outside sticks (but even these can be used if you take the trouble to scrape the strings off with a sharp knife) into chunks about inch long. Melt a large lump of butter and a few drops of olive oil in a thick frying-pan and in this let the celery stew gently, covered, with a very little seasoning of salt, for about 15 minutes. If you have a little good clear meat, chicken or game stock, add a spoonful or two and let it reduce so that it forms a little syrupy sauce.
This dish makes a splendid accompaniment for pheasant and other game dishes, as well as for lamb, pork and fried or baked sausages.
ÉTUVÉ DE CÉLERI-RAVE
CELERIAC STEWED IN BUTTER
Celeriac, or celery-root, is appearing in increasing quantities in the shops and makes most delicious winter salads and vegetable dishes as well as soups.
Peel a celeriac, rinse it, and shred it into fine strips. If you possess a mandoline (see page 64), it is a matter of moments