French Provincial Cooking - Elizabeth David [159]
Cut the tomatoes in half, score the cut surface with a sharp little knife, press in some salt and, when it has dissolved, turn the tomatoes upside down on a plate and leave them an hour or two. At the same time prepare the bread by cutting off the crusts, rubbing the crumb on both sides with a cut clove of garlic, sprinkling it with olive oil and leaving it to soften. Chop quite a lot of parsley—enough to make two good tablespoons, and then chop the softened bread with it, adding a seasoning of salt and pepper. Squeeze out the surplus juice and pulp from the tomatoes and press in the bread and parsley mixture. Sprinkle with more olive oil and cook the tomatoes in a fireproof gratin dish under the grill, slowly at first, then closer to the flame so that the surface browns.
LES TOPINAMBOURS
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES
Two snags about Jerusalem artichokes prevent them from being cooked more frequently than they are. They are tiresome to peel and they are apt to cook unevenly. There are, however, varieties now being cultivated which are much smoother than the old knobbly kind and which are scarcely more trouble to deal with than potatoes.
The Legumex, that admirable gadget which makes the skinning of potatoes, particularly new ones, so very easy, is also quite effective for Jerusalem artichokes. Some people skin the artichokes after they have been boiled; others tell me that they find it more satisfactory to part boil them, drain and skin them, and then finish cooking them. It is all a question of what you are used to. Personally, I prefer to get all the cleaning over before embarking on the cooking. As for the difficulty of timing them, they can be steamed in a potato steamer, but this is rather a long job and perhaps the best way out of the difficulty is to bring them to the boil on the top of the stove and then transfer the pan, covered, to a fairly fast oven. In about 15 to 20 minutes they should be cooked, and more evenly than when they are boiled over direct heat. Allow lb. per person.
TOPINAMBOURS À LA PROVENÇALE
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES WITH TOMATOES AND HERBS
Simmer your artichokes in salted water until they are almost, but not quite, cooked. Strain them. Cut each in two. Heat a little olive oil in a heavy pan, put in the artichokes and, for each pound, add 2 skinned and chopped tomatoes, and a seasoning of dried basil or marjoram chopped with a little scrap of garlic, salt and freshly-milled pepper. By the time the tomatoes have melted to form a sauce, the artichokes should be quite tender and the dish ready to serve, either by itself or as an accompaniment to lamb, pork or sausages. This is a dish which also goes remarkably well with goose.
TOPINAMBOURS À LA CRÈME
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES WITH CREAM
Choose large artichokes for this dish, allowing lb. per person, and, having peeled them, slice them as evenly as possible, about inch thick. In a thick frying-pan, melt a little butter, put in the artichokes, rinsed and drained, and let them absorb the butter. Season, just cover with water, and cook steadily in the open pan until nearly all the liquid is evaporated and the artichokes tender. For 1 lb. of artichokes pour in 3 tablespoons of cream, a scrap of nutmeg, some chopped parsley, cook another minute and squeeze in a few drops of lemon.
TOPINAMBOURS AU JUS
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES STEWED WITH STOCK
Prepare and cook as above, using chicken or meat stock instead of water, and when there is just enough left to form a sauce, add another lump of butter and a squeeze of lemon juice. Shake the pan so that the butter melts quickly.
LES TRUFFES
TRUFFLES
'I have little to say about this expensive luxury. If you have only a few truffles, use them to stuff a chicken or flavour an egg dish. If you have a quantity, cook them in port and serve them with meat.’
EDOUARD DE POMIANE: Le Code de la Bonne Chère, 1930
‘The réveillon took place at the Marquise’s flat,