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By Root 2263 0

the origin and the proper composition of the homard à l’américaine. These matters are interesting but not, to most of us, very vital. Let Édouard de Pomiane have the last word for now. Dr. de Pomiane is a learned, high-spirited, infinitely stimulating mixture of grand seigneur and enfant terrible of the gastronomic world. Many must be the grave pontiffs of that world whom he has successfully deflated, for his irreverence is backed by a profound knowledge and understanding of every aspect of his subject. The langouste à l’américaine, then, says Dr. de Pomiane, is a ‘gastronomic cacophony’ . . . the tomato sauce, the cayenne pepper, the shallots—they confer upon the mixture a dominant note which is not that of the langouste. . . . And the book in which he drops this little firecracker has a title with which none but he could get away. It is called Vingt Plats qui Donnent la Goutte. Twenty dishes which give you the gout. . . . You are to prevent the onset of this painful complaint, I should add, not by the avoidance of these twenty delectable dishes, but by means of a glass of a patent medicine taken the evening after eating any of these dishes and again next morning. It bears the name of Pipérazine Midy.

HOMARD À LA CHARENTAISE

LOBSTER WITH VERMOUTH AND CREAM SAUCE

This is similar to the recipe for langouste à la crème on page 326 and, although lobster instead of crawfish is used, the two are interchangeable as far as these dishes are concerned.

For four people, get 2 freshly-boiled lobsters, not too large. Other ingredients are 1 oz. of butter, a shallot, 2 teaspoons of flour, pint of cream, a teaspoon of Louit’s Pimento mustard or, failing that, of Grey Poupon yellow Dijon mustard, a tablespoon of grated Parmesan or Gruyère, 4 tablespoons of Pineau des Charentes or of dry white vermouth, salt, freshly-milled pepper, nutmeg and breadcrumbs.

Heat the butter in a thick saucepan; in this melt the finely-chopped shallot, but do not let it fry. Pour in the Pineau (this is a white wine and brandy apéritif drink made in the Charente district; it can be obtained in England but any good dry white vermouth will do as well) and let it bubble fast for a minute or two. Lower the heat and stir in the flour. When it has thickened, start adding the cream rather slowly, stirring all the time. Season with a little salt, pepper and nutmeg. Put the saucepan on a mat and let the sauce barely simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring it at frequent intervals. Stir in the mustard and the grated cheese.

Remove all the flesh from the claws and tails of the split lobsters. Slice it into neat little rounds. Pour a little of the sauce into each shell. Arrange the slices of lobster meat tidily on top. Cover with the sauce. Strew breadcrumbs over the top and add a few very small knobs of butter. Put the lobsters thus prepared in fireproof gratin dishes. Heat very slowly in the oven, covered if possible, for 15 minutes. Then put under the hot grill until the surface is golden and bubbling.

HOMARD OU LANGOUSTE À LA MAYONNAISE

LOBSTER OR CRAWFISH WITH MAYONNAISE

When all is said and done, plain freshly-boiled lobster or crawfish served either hot or cold is infinitely superior to all the fancy and showy dishes such as Newburg, à l’américaine and the rest. In towns, lobsters are seldom sold alive, nor would one wish to have to carry them home, struggling and clacking their claws in the most alarming way. Having done this job in seaside villages in Cornwall and in the west of Scotland, in Greece and in Provence, having manœuvred them into cauldrons of cold water, brought them gràdually to the boil in the way recommended by the R.S.P.C.A. and eaten them in the freshest possible condition, I think I would still rather buy them ready cooked from a reliable fishmonger, who will choose good ones, split them, crack the claws and send them more or less ready to serve. Medium-sized or small ones are the best, very large ones often being old and tough. If you can get hen lobsters or crawfish, so much the better. The red coral part inside can be pounded