French Provincial Cooking - Elizabeth David [192]
RÔTI DE CONTREFILET
ROAST UPPER FILLET OF BEEF
A piece of that cut of beef known as the eye of the sirloin or upper fillet and which the French call contrefilet or faux filet, bone and all gristle and sinew removed, tied in a compact rectangular shape, weighing between 2 and 3 lb., makes an ideal small roasting joint. Expensive, of course, but still cheaper than fillet, and most people would, I think, agree, finer in flavour. (It is shown in the drawing opposite.)
Simply brush the cut surfaces of the meat with olive oil, stand the joint on a grid in a baking tin, put it in the centre of the oven preheated to Gas No. 7, 420 deg. F. After 10 minutes lower the heat to Gas No. 5, 375 deg. F., and cook altogether for just about an hour, basting from time to time with its own fat. Those who like beef very underdone will probably find 45 minutes sufficient.
Potatoes, already all but cooked, can be put in the tin underneath the meat as soon as sufficient fat has run. They will roast beautifully. If any sauce is required apart from the natural juices which run from the beef as it is carved, something very simple, like maître d’hôtel butter, to which a little tarragon has been added, is the best solution, unless you like to serve a sauce béarnaise, which is the alternative to the more usual Madeira sauce served in France.
A larger piece of meat does not need very much more cooking; the joint will be longer but not thicker, and it is the thickness which counts.
CHÂTEAUBRIAND SAUCE BÉARNAISE
DOUBLE FILLET STEAK WITH BÉARNAISE SAUCE
A châteaubriand steak is a cut from the centre and thickest part of the fillet, weighing about 12 oz., and enough for two people. It is too thick to be grilled on an ordinary domestic cooker, as the meat will be too near the flame and will dry up before it is sufficiently cooked. The best solution is, having painted the meat with olive oil and sprinkled it with a little coarsely-ground pepper, to give it about a minute on each side close to the hot grill and then to transfer it, standing on a rack, in a baking tin to a very hot oven, Gas No. 8, 445 deg. F., and roast it for about 12 to 15 minutes.
Serve it with pommes fondantes (page 271) and a sauce béarnaise.
Sometimes a much larger piece of fillet weighing up to about 1 lb. is described as a Châteaubriand.
ENTRECÔTE GRILLÉE
GRILLED RIB STEAK
An entrecôte26 is, properly speaking, and as its name implies, a piece of meat cut from between two ribs, from the part of the back known in English as wing-ribs and in French as train-de-côte.
Slices of meat from the boned contrefilet, in English the upper fillet or eye of the sirloin, or from the back ribs, are also frequently sold as entrecôtes and, in French restaurants, a slice of rump steak or, indeed, any other slice of beef nicely cut and trimmed to look like a ‘bifteck’ are presented on the menu as entrecôte. On the whole, it is a dish to be avoided in France except in high-class restaurants. It is not that the quality of the beef in France is not often excellent and just as good as our own; but like our own it is variable and, again, as in England, restaurateurs are not always conscientious about these matters.
When buying entrecôtes to cook at home, one usually allows a steak of a good -inch thickness, weighing 7 to 8 oz., for each person; the steaks should be seasoned with freshly-milled pepper, lightly coated with oil, and grilled, not too near the flame, for about 4 minutes on each side, salt being added as each side is browned. Do not be misled by the name entrecôte minute, often used in connection with these steaks, into thinking that they should be so thin that they are cooked in a minute. It is just a manner of speaking and a thin, flat, entrecôte makes a poor, dry steak.
ENTRECÔTE À LA BORDELAISE
RIB STEAK WITH SHALLOTS AND MARROW
‘The entrecôte should be cut 2 fingers thick. Marinate it in a tablespoon of oil, salt and pepper. Prepare a fire of glowing charcoal and put the meat on the grill. Chop together 4 shallots,