French Provincial Cooking - Elizabeth David [206]
LE PORC FRAIS
FRESH PORK
While the main defect of the cheaper cuts of beef is their tendency to dryness the very opposite might be said of the second- and third-grade cuts of the pig. An excess of fat on the fore-end, the blade-bone, spare rib and belly of pork makes these cuts appreciably cheaper than leg and loin, which are the prime roasting and grilling pieces. Much depends, of course, on the breed and the feeding of the pig, and in these days of aversion to fat meat a good deal has been done to ensure the maximum of lean, even on the fat cuts. For instance, belly of pork now tends to contain much more lean in proportion to fat than would have been the case on a similar cut some thirty or forty years ago.
In the old recipes the fat cuts of pork, usually salted, are generally eked out with enormous quantities of dried peas, potatoes, barley, rice and so on, to make thick soups or stews further thickened with quantities of flour—dishes which nowadays we should find horribly stodgy.
The principle on which these recipes were based, however, that of pulses or starchy vegetables absorbing excess fat from the meat and thereby themselves acquiring the lubrication they need to make them palatable, still applies in modern recipes, at least as far as pork is concerned.
Fat belly of pork is also used a good deal in the making of the pâtés and terrines, and for the rillettes described in the section on pork products.
Remember also that the rind of fresh pork is valuable for the gelatinous quality it gives to stock; and in French cookery enormous use is made of the rind of either salt or fresh pork to lubricate and enrich beef stews and bean dishes—notably the cassoulet of Toulouse. But use it sparingly, for it is rather rich for those not accustomed to such food.
The prime cuts of pork, from the leg and loin, also offer first-class value, and as will be seen from the recipes in this section, some really beautiful dishes can be made from them, many of these being at their best cold, as is so often the case with a fat meat. And, personally, plebeian though it may be considered, I find a well-seasoned pork chop properly grilled a good deal more interesting than the everlasting and often overrated beefsteak.
CARRÉ DE PORC PROVENÇAL
ROAST LOIN OF PORK WITH WINE AND HERBS
Carré of pork is the part of the loin comprising seven or eight neck cutlets. Half the joint can be cooked if the whole one is too big, but it is so good cold that I usually cook more than is needed for one meal.
Ask the butcher to pare off the rind without removing any of the fat, unless the joint happens to be a very fat one, and to chine the bones. Insert a few little slivers of garlic close to the bones. Rub the meat well with salt. Pour a large glass of white or red wine over it, add 2 or 3 sprigs of fresh thyme and leave to steep for a couple of hours.
Put the meat and its marinade into a baking tin, cover with greased paper or foil and cook, fat side up, with the rind underneath to enrich the sauce, in a moderate oven, Gas No. 4, 355 deg. F., for approximately 1 hours. If the liquid dries up, add a little water.
Have ready half a cupful of chopped parsley mixed with fine breadcrumbs. Remove the paper from the meat, and spread the parsley mixture over the fat side, pressing it gently down with a knife. Lower the oven to No. 2, 310 deg. F., and cook for another 35 to 50 minutes, basting the meat now and again with its own liquid so that the breadcrumbs and parsley form a nice golden coating.
Serve with the pommes mousseline façon provençale, as described on page 272. Ample for four.
CÔTES DE PORC VALLÉE D’AUGE
GRILLED PORK CHOPS WITH CIDER SAUCE
Chop 3 or 4 shallots very finely with parsley; season with salt and pepper; score 4 pork chops lightly on each side and spread with the shallot mixture. Moisten with melted butter or olive oil, and grill. Have ready a glass of cider heated in a small pan and when the chops are cooked