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By Root 2312 0

is only for a short spell during the early summer that one comes across this dish locally, for it is then that the shad—which, incidentally, is not nearly such an uncomfortably bony fish as it is advertised to be—comes up the estuary of the Loire. But on the whole I think it is less for the food, delicious as it is, than for the lovely white wines of Anjou and Touraine, particularly those of Sancerre, Pouilly and Vouvray, that one remembers meals in this part of the country. It always seems to me that while one can drink just as superb Burgundies and Bordeaux in England as in France (and, nowadays, not very much more expensively), these Loire wines have, when drunk on the spot, a lyrical quality which often seems to be missing when one drinks them in England. But the experts would probably say that this is just a question of mood and surroundings.

The Savoie

The following account, which originally appeared, in French, in a professional catering magazine, seems to me of great interest as a record both of French country-house hospitality before the 1914 war and of the impression left by this kind of cooking upon the most celebrated chef of his day.

ESCOFFIER’S SHOOTING WEEK-END FIFTY YEARS AGO

‘Although it is already a good long time ago, I well remember a shooting party given by one of my friends who owned a vast property in an exquisite valley of the Haute-Savoie. My friend had chosen this domain so that he could go there to rest from time to time, far from the irritations of a too active life. It was the beginning of November, a period when the shooting offers particularly attractive sport, especially in these rather wild districts. About ten guests were assembled on the Thursday evening, and it was decided that at dawn the following morning we should all set out, dispersing as chance directed, in search of a few coveys of partridge.

‘Our meal, that evening, was composed of a cream of pumpkin soup with little croûtons fried in butter, a young turkey roasted on the spit accompanied by a large country sausage and a salad of potatoes, dandelions and beetroot, and followed by a big bowl of pears cooked in red wine and served with whipped cream.

‘Next morning at the agreed hour, we were all ready, and furnished with the necessary provisions and accompanied by local guides, we climbed the rocky paths, real goat tracks, without too much difficulty; and before long the fusillade began. It was those members of the party who had gone ahead who were opening the shoot by bagging two hares; the day promised to be fairly fruitful. And indeed so it turned out, since we were back at the house by about four o’clock, somewhat tired, but proud to count out: three hares, a very young chamois, eleven partridges, three capercailzies, six young rabbits and a quantity of small birds.

‘After a light collation, we patiently awaited dinner contemplating the while the admirable panorama which lay before us. The game which we had shot was reserved for the next day’s meals.

‘Our dinner that evening consisted of a cabbage, potato and kohl-rabi soup, augmented with three young chickens, an enormous piece of lean bacon and a big farmhouse sausage. The broth, with some of the mashed vegetables, was poured over slices of toast, which made an excellent rustic soup. What remained of the vegetables were arranged on a large dish around the chickens, the bacon and the sausage; here was the wherewithal to comfort the most robust of stomachs, and each of us did due honour to this good family dish.

‘To follow, we were served with a leg of mutton, tender and pink, accompanied by a purée of chestnuts. Then, a surprise—but one which was not entirely unexpected from our host, who had an excellent cook—an immense, hermetically sealed terrine, which, placed in the middle of the table, gave out, when it was uncovered, a marvellous scent of truffles, partridges, and aromatic herbs.

‘This terrine contained eight young partridges, amply truffled and cased in fat bacon, a little bouquet of mountain herbs and several glasses of fine-champagne cognac. All had