French Provincial Cooking - Elizabeth David [80]
Anyhow, to make a good potato salad, at least choose new potatoes or one of the firm-fleshed varieties such as Majestic or King Edward. Scrub them, and boil them in their skins, keeping a watchful eye upon them to see that they do not overcook. Drain them, and peel them as soon as they can be handled. Slice them, and season them while they are still warm (this is essential) with salt, pepper, plenty of good olive oil and a little tarragon or wine or cider vinegar. Add a generous sprinkling of finely chopped parsley or chives.
An alternative dressing is a home-made mayonnaise, thinned to the consistency of cream with a little warm water. A hot potato salad is the frequent accompaniment of a hot poached country sausage, and a very delicious combination it is. The recipe is on page 228.
PIMENTS DOUX EN SALADE
SWEET PEPPER SALADS
Sweet red or green peppers can be served in two ways for an hors-d’œuvre. First raw, in which case you cut off the stalk end, extract the core and the seeds, rinse the pepper under the cold tap to make sure no seeds remain, then slice it in the thinnest possible rounds. Dress with oil and salt and add a few black olives.
The second method is to skin the peppers by impaling them on a long fork or skewer and holding them over the gas flame, turning them round and round, until all the skin is charred quite black. It will then rub off quite easily, with the aid of a little running cold water. Every scrap of burnt skin must be removed, likewise the seeds and cores. Cut the peppers into lengthwise strips, season with salt, olive oil, a little chopped garlic if you like, and parsley.
SALADE DE POIS CHICHES
SALAD OF CHICK PEAS
For the method of cooking chick peas see the soupe aux pois chiches (page 164). While the peas are still warm they can be very easily slipped out of their skins, although this is a tedious business and not strictly necessary. Season the peas well with salt if they need it, pepper and olive oil, and if you like a little finely sliced onion.
TOPINAMBOURS EN SALADE
SALAD OF JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES
Put the peeled and washed artichokes in cold salted water, simmer rather than boil them, and keep a wary eye on them after the first 10 minutes, testing them with a skewer and extracting each from the pan as soon as it is ready. For salad they should remain a little resistant. While still warm, slice them as you would potatoes, season with salt, pepper, plenty of olive oil and a little wine vinegar, or lemon juice. For 2 lb. of artichokes mix in a heart of raw celery cut in thin strips, parsley, garlic if you like. Cover the bowl until the salad is to be served. A layer of chopped ham on top of the salad makes a nice addition.
COURGETTES À LA GRECQUE
LITTLE MARROWS STEWED IN OIL
Wash 1 lb. of courgettes, or small marrows, and pare off any damaged part of the skin; otherwise do not peel them. Remove the two ends, slice them into inch-long pieces, put them in a colander, sprinkle them with salt and leave them to drain for an hour or so.
Prepare the following mixture: a coffee-cupful (after-dinner size) of olive oil, the juice of a lemon, pint of water, a bayleaf, a sprig of thyme, a few crushed peppercorns and coriander seeds and a little salt. Bring this to the boil; put in 3 skinned and chopped tomatoes and the courgettes. Cook fairly fast for 20 to 25 minutes. Serve cold. The coriander seeds and tomatoes are optional, and garlic can be added by those who like it.
Enough for four.
ARTICHAUTS À LA GRECQUE
ARTICHOKE HEARTS STEWED IN OIL
Except for those