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Carefully remove the hot pan from the oven and spread the cauliflower florets on the pan. Roast the cauliflower for 10 minutes. Stir with a spatula, turning the florets and moving them around on the pan so they'll roast evenly. Roast until browned and tender, about 10 minutes more.

Meanwhile, combine the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and the leeks in a soup pot. Cook, covered, over medium-low heat until the leeks are wilted, about 10 minutes. Add the curry powder and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add 6 cups water, the potatoes and tomato paste. Cover and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes.

Combine the oregano, orange zest and garlic in a small bowl. Stir into the roasted cauliflower.

When the potatoes are tender, add half of the seasoned roasted cauliflower to the soup and puree with an immersion blender. If you don't have an immersion blender, let the soup cool slightly, transfer it to a blender or food processor, in batches if necessary, and puree until smooth. Return the soup to the pot. Taste and add more salt and a generous grinding of black pepper if needed.

To serve, ladle the soup into bowls. Divide the remaining roasted cauliflower florets among the soup bowls and serve at once.

Shortcuts

Use bags of precut cauliflower florets in place of the cauliflower head. For best results, soak the florets in a bowl of ice water for 10 minutes to refresh them before roasting.

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Make a Meal

Serve with Spinach, Avocado and Chopped-Egg Salad ([>]) and crostini with Rosemary-Fennel White Bean Spread ([>]).

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WINTER BORSCHT Vegan (omit dairy topping)

One trip to Russia and many bowls of delicious borscht later, I was inspired to create my own version of this iconic beet soup, modeled after an especially aromatic version made with caramelized apples. Although the list of ingredients is long, you can pare it down if you'd like. Use your discretion and what's in your larder, but don't forgo the orange zest. It adds a fresh, bright taste to the mélange of vegetables.

Cook Time: 45 minutes

Serves: 8 with leftovers

1½ pounds beets (about 5 medium-large), preferably with leafy green tops attached

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium leek, roots and dark green tops trimmed, halved lengthwise, washed thoroughly and chopped (about 1 cup)

1 cup diced parsnip or carrot

1 cup diced fennel or celery

2 garlic cloves, grated

1 cup canned diced tomatoes with juice (about half a 14.5-ounce can)

Coarse salt

8 round white, Yukon Gold or other small potatoes, unpeeled

2 cups finely chopped red or green cabbage

1 cup diced peeled tart apple, such as Granny Smith

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, plus more for garnish

2 teaspoons grated orange zest

Freshly ground black pepper

2–3 tablespoons red wine vinegar, or more to taste

1 cup sour cream, plain yogurt or crème fraîche, or to taste (optional)

If your beets have tops, remove them, cutting the stems close to the beets. Set the tops aside. Scrub the beets or peel them if the skins are thick. Cut 3 of the beets into ¼-inch dice and set aside. Coarsely shred the remaining beets on a box grater or the wide shredding attachment of a food processor. Set the beets aside.

Wash the beet tops in two or three changes of water to make sure they are grit-free. Pull the large leafy parts off the thick center stems and discard the stems, or reserve for broth. Coarsely chop the beet greens until you have 2 cups and set aside. Reserve the leftovers for braised greens (see Braising, [>] and Swiss Chard with Fragrant Garlic and Salt, [>]).

Heat the oil in a soup pot until it is hot enough to sizzle a piece of vegetable. Add the leek, parsnip or carrot and fennel or celery and cook, stirring, over medium heat until the vegetables are soft and golden, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the reserved diced and shredded beets, 6 cups water, the tomatoes and 2 teaspoons salt and bring to a boil. Cook, covered, for 20 minutes.