• Choose a category
• All
• Classic-Fiction

Because their bran is more porous, some black or red rices cook in less time than brown rice.

BEANS

Although slow-cooking dried beans present a challenge when time is of the essence, I try not to let that deter me. When I have more time, I often soak and cook a large batch, keeping half for a quick dinner and putting the other half in the freezer for my next pot of soup. When I don't have this stash, I depend on good-quality canned beans or, in the case of black-eyed peas, bags of commercially frozen cooked beans.

Bean Basics

Canned Beans When it comes to beans, I'm not a purist. While canned beans are not more delicious than oven-baked dried beans (see below), they are quick and superconvenient. They are available in 15- to 16-ounce cans with a volume of about 1¾ cups. Try different brands to find the one with the texture and flavor you prefer. Beans are best when they are firm and whole, not mushy and broken. Before using canned beans, empty the can into a fine-mesh strainer and rinse with water to get rid of the brine. For me, it is too salty and tastes "canned."

Oven-Baked Dried Beans When you have more time and you're game for an excellent, if slow technique, this oven-bake method is the way to go. The low heat of the oven allows the beans to cook slowly in gently simmering, never aggressively boiling, liquid that coaxes the beans to a creamy softness. This method avoids the fluctuation in temperature encountered when a pot sits on top of the stove and the rough stirring that can mash the delicate beans as they cook. Oven-baked beans emerge firm on the outside and smooth and creamy within. They can be refrigerated for up to 5 days or frozen for later use.

Place 2 to 3 cups (about 1 pound) dried beans in a large bowl and cover with water. Soak for about 4 hours or overnight in a cool kitchen or the refrigerator. Discard the soaking liquid. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the beans in a deep casserole with a lid or in an enameled cast-iron pot. Add 2 or 3 garlic cloves that have been slightly crushed by pressing down on them with the side of a knife, 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, a thick slice of onion and a bay leaf or a sprig of your fresh herb of choice. Cover the beans with water or unsalted vegetable broth. (The question of when to salt beans is often debated. I prefer adding salt after the beans are cooked, but while they are still hot.) Cover the pot and place in the oven. Bake for 1 to 2 hours, checking on their progress after 1 hour. Depending on the source, some beans cook in 1 hour, while others can take up to 2 hours. You must be flexible. If the water is absorbed, add a small amount of boiling water to keep the beans moist. Do not stir, which will mash the beans. When the beans are tender, remove them from the oven and let stand for about 30 minutes. Some of the excess liquid surrounding the beans will be absorbed as the beans cool. Any remaining cooking liquid can be strained off and reserved for soup. Add coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.

LENTILS

Tender, earthy and sweet, lentils are by far the fastest-cooking member of the legume family, making them a practical choice when you're in a hurry. No soaking is necessary. Cook lentils in twice their volume of gently boiling water (a rapid boil can turn delicate lentils mushy) until tender to the bite, usually between 15 and 25 minutes. Salt after cooking.

Lentils come in a variety of colors and sizes. I mostly cook with the dull brown lentils sold in most supermarkets, but for some dishes, I enjoy the peppery-tasting, small army-green French lentils sometimes called du Puy or the dramatic black lentils called "caviar" lentils. Because the cooking time varies with each batch, it is best to begin tasting after 15 minutes and then taste at 5-minute intervals. If the lentils become mushy, you can turn them into soup. Some markets sell vacuum-packed cooked lentils that are firm, tender and flavorful.

1 cup dried lentils yields about 3 cups cooked.