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Remove the toothpicks from the taquitos, and transfer the taquitos to a platter. Spoon the tomatillo-cilantro salsa down the center of each taquito, and serve.

PUFF PASTRY-WRAPPED JALAPEÑOS STUFFED WITH OAXACA CHEESE

Nonstick cooking spray

2½ cups shredded Oaxaca cheese or mozzarella cheese

1½ tablespoons crumbled dried oregano, preferably Mexican

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

18 jalapeño chiles, charred, peeled, stemmed, seeded, and left whole

One 17.3-ounce package frozen puff pastry, thawed

All-purpose flour, for rolling

1 egg, lightly beaten with 1 tablespoon water

These guys are spicy! If you’re afraid of the heat, you can use güero chiles, but jalapeños are exactly the right size for an appetizer. Oaxaca cheese, like mozzarella, is a mild-flavored white cheese that is excellent for melting. It’s popular for quesadillas in Mexico.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a large baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray.

Mix the cheese and the oregano in a medium bowl to blend. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Carefully fill each jalapeño with 1 tablespoon of the cheese mixture. (The jalapeños can be prepared 1 day ahead. Transfer the filled jalapeños carefully to a baking sheet, cover, and refrigerate.)

Working with 1 sheet at a time, roll the puff pastry on a lightly floured surface to ¼-inch thickness. Cut it into nine 3 x 4-inch rectangles. Place the rectangles on a work surface, and brush each one lightly with the egg wash. Place 1 jalapeño in the center of each rectangle, on the diagonal. Tightly fold the puff pastry, like an envelope, over the jalapeño to enclose it completely. Brush the pastry lightly with the egg wash. Press the tines of a fork lightly on the seams to seal the pastry. Invert the packets onto the prepared baking sheet so they are seam side down. Brush them lightly with egg wash. Repeat with the remaining puff pastry and jalapeños.

Bake until puffed and golden, about 20 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes, and then transfer the pastry-wrapped jalapeños to a platter and serve.

MASCARPONE-STUFFED SQUASH BLOSSOMS WITH RASPBERRY VINAIGRETTE

SERVES 4

⅓ cup fresh raspberries

⅓ cup chopped shallots

¼ cup raspberry vinegar

½ cup olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

⅓ cup mascarpone cheese

1 teaspoon minced canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce

½ teaspoon minced fresh thyme

12 fresh squash blossoms, pistils removed

Vegetable oil, for frying

½ cup all-purpose flour

Beer Batter

In Tijuana, as soon as the days get a little warmer, the street vendors start to appear with giant bunches of squash blossoms. I grew up eating squash blossoms sautéed and stuffed in quesadillas, served with fresh raspberries. The addition of mascarpone, an Italian triple-cream cheese, takes the dish to a whole new level.

Combine the raspberries, shallots, and vinegar in a blender or food processor, and process to form a coarse puree. With the machine running, gradually add the olive oil. Season the vinaigrette with salt and black pepper to taste. Set aside.

Mix the mascarpone, chipotle chiles and sauce, and thyme in a small bowl. Season the filling to taste with salt and pepper. Place the filling in a pastry bag fitted with a ¼-inch tip. Pipe the filling into each squash blossom and twist the blossom at the top to enclose it.

Place a medium-size heavy saucepan over medium-high heat and add enough vegetable oil to reach one third of the way up the sides of the pan. Heat the oil to 350°F.

Dust the squash blossoms in the flour and then dip them into the beer batter. Working in batches, fry the squash blossoms for 3 minutes, or until they are golden brown. Transfer them to paper towels to drain. Arrange the squash blossoms on a platter, drizzle with the raspberry vinaigrette, and serve.

TIP NO PASTRY BAG? NO WORRIES. PUT THE FILLING IN A PLASTIC BAG AND CUT A ¼-INCH HOLE IN ONE OF THE CORNERS.

beer batter

MAKES 1 ¾ CUPS

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground