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Bring the chicken broth to a boil in a medium-size heavy saucepan over high heat. Add the ancho chiles and remove from the heat. Let stand for 15 minutes, or until the chiles soften.

Transfer the chiles and broth to a blender and puree until smooth. Strain into a 4-cup measuring cup to measure 2¾ cups (reserve the remaining puree for another use). Add the milk, salt, and pepper and set aside.

Melt the butter with the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and garlic and sauté for 3 minutes, or until the onion is translucent. Add the pine nuts and stir for 2 minutes, or until they are golden. Add the rice and stir for 2 minutes, or until it is coated with oil.

Add the ancho puree and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 20 minutes, or until all the liquid has been absorbed. Remove the pan from the heat and let the rice stand for 5 minutes. Then fluff the rice with a fork and serve.

ÁRBOL CHILE-INFUSED COUSCOUS WITH DATES AND ORANGES

* SERVES 4

1½ cups vegetable broth

2 dried árbol chiles

One 3-inch-long cinammon stick

1 cup plain couscous

3 oranges

¼ cup pine nuts, toasted

¼ cup chopped pitted dates

¼ cup minced red onion

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Couscous, made from semolina, is a staple in North African cuisine. Here it is infused with spicy chiles and cinnamon in this easy-to-whip-up salad that would pair nicely with grilled lamb or poultry.

Combine the broth, chiles, and cinnamon stick in a medium-size heavy saucepan over medium-high heat, and bring to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat and let stand for 5 minutes. Then remove and discard the chiles and cinnamon stick.

Put the couscous in a large bowl and pour the hot infused broth over it. Cover, and let stand for 4 minutes.

Meanwhile, cut the peel and white pith from each orange. Working over a medium bowl, cut between the membranes to release the orange segments. Reserve 1 tablespoon of the orange juice.

Fluff the couscous with a fork. Mix in the orange segments, pine nuts, dates, onion, cilantro, olive oil, and the reserved orange juice. Season the couscous salad to taste with salt and pepper. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled.

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Salsa Borracha

Smoked Salmon-Chile Mulato Sauce

Grilled Pineapple Salsa

Sesame Seed and Árbol Chile Salsa

Three Chile Salsa

Chiles Toreados: Fried Chiles with Lime-Soy Sauce

Cilantro Pesto

Mango, Serrano, and Avocado Salsa

Fresh Tomatillo-Avocado Salsa

Golden Pico de Gallo

Pickled Onions

Homemade Chipotle Mayo

Creamed Rajas

Poblano, serrano, morilla, chilaca, California, mulato, ancho, cascabel, chipotle, habanero, jalapeño, de árbol, mirasol, pasilla, chiltepín, piquín … Mexican chiles provide inspiration for a near-endless list of salsas.

I once read that if tortillas are the heart of Mexico, then salsas are the blood, and I completely agree. For me, they are what best differentiates Mexican food from any other cuisine in the world. Some salsas are grilled, some are fried, some are raw, some are sweet. They all add flavor and dimension to any meal. It’s like eating ketchup with French fries. To the classic Mexican dishes—quesadillas, tacos de carne asada, huevos rancheros—salsa is the final touch that makes the food that much better.

And what makes a good salsa? A perfect combination of chiles. Use dried when looking for smoky and nutty undertones. Go for fresh for brighter flavors. If you aren’t sure which to choose, a good rule for beginners is that the smaller the chile, the spicier the kick. The best advice I could ever give to anyone concerning chiles is to be brave enough to try them. Start by just putting the tip of your tongue to the chile: you’ll get a very good sense of the spice and the flavor. Remove the veins if you like your salsas on the mild side; that’s where most of the heat is hiding.

The first thing that comes to mind when people think of salsa is the chunky dip for