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Fresh Chiles

ANAHEIM CHILE: Named after the city in California, this generally mild chile is one of the most commonly available in the United States; it is usually medium green in color and has a long narrow shape. When dried, it is referred to as a California chile.

ÁRBOL CHILE: A small thin green chile, full of seeds. It has a quick sharp heat. When dried, árbol chiles turn red in color.

GÜERO CHILE: Most chiles in Mexico that are light yellow or very pale green are called güero chiles. They are very mild in flavor and are great for stuffing and frying.

HABANERO CHILE: Small, round with ridges, orange-gold in color. These are always extremely hot and should be handled and eaten with caution. Habaneros are most flavorful when asado (seared in a pan) and are never skinned. Uncooked, they are perfect for pickling and in fresh salsas.

JALAPEÑO CHILE: A rounded, dark green, shiny chile, 3 to 4 inches in length. It is pleasantly hot and fresh-tasting. Used (raw) in salsas, charred, pickled, sliced into rings, and stuffed. When ripened on the plant, they turn red in color. Chipotles are smoke-dried jalapeños.

POBLANO CHILE: A widely used fresh chile; dark green, large, and wide, with shiny skin. It is used in many traditional Mexican dishes such as rajas and chiles relleno (stuffed, battered, and fried poblanos). Ripened on the plant and dried, it is known as chile ancho or pasilla.

SERRANO CHILE: The preferred chile for salsas. Slender, bullet-shaped, 2 to 3 inches long. Used raw or charred in salsas. Usually hotter than jalapeños, these range between hot and very hot.

Dried Chiles

ANCHO CHILE (also known as pasilla): A broad chile, 3 to 4 inches long. The flavor ranges from mild to pungent. The rich, slightly fruit-flavored ancho is the sweetest of the dried chiles. The chile should be flexible and not too dried out. In its fresh green state, the ancho is called a poblano chile.

CASCABEL CHILE: A plum-shaped, dark-blood-red chile that ranges in size from about 1 to 1½ inches in diameter. Cascabel means “little round bell” or “rattle” in Spanish, a name alluding to the rattling sound this chile makes when shaken. It is commonly used in salsas to add a rich nutty flavor and mild heat.

CHIPOTLE CHILE: This hot chile is a smoked-dried jalapeño. It has a wrinkled dark brown skin and a smoky, sweet, almost chocolaty flavor. By far, my favorite chile for cooking.

GUAJILLO CHILE: The chile most commonly used in red salsas and enchiladas. Dark red to almost black, shiny, 6 to 8 inches in length. Because of their thick flesh, guajillos need to be soaked or fully cooked before using for salsas.

MORILLA CHILE: Also known in Baja as the mora chile, this is a smaller jalapeño that is smoke-dried until it is the color of a mulberry (mora), hence its name. It’s a narrow chile about 2½ inches long and ¾ inch wide. The flavor is similar to that of the chipotle, which is a good substitute.

MULATO CHILE: A different variety of dried poblano that looks very similar to the ancho (the dried version of the poblano) but has a slightly sweeter flavor. When rehydrated it is perfect for stuffing and has a mild chocolate taste.

Cheese

AÑEJO OR COTIJA CHEESE: A type of salty, crumbly cow’s-milk cheese that is considered the Mexican feta. It is one of only a few cheeses in Mexico with a strong pungent, salty flavor. It is available in Latin markets and some supermarkets.

COTIJA CHEESE: See Añejo cheese.

EMMENTHAL: Switzerland’s oldest and most important cheese, named for the country’s Emmenthal Valley. It has a mellow, buttery, nutty flavor that is suitable in sauces and as a grated topping.

FRESCO CHEESE: A salty, rubbery, wet cheese. It crumbles easily, like a cow’s-milk feta. It is commonly used to sprinkle over finished dishes such as tostadas, taquitos, and enchiladas.

MANCHEGO CHEESE: An aged Spanish sheep’s-milk cheese, very popular in Mexico.

OAXACA CHEESE: A creamy cheese with a delicate flavor; it melts