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Frommer's Kauai - Jeanette Foster [10]

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for extra guests. On the hillside is a huge, 50-foot swimming pool, perfect for lap swimming. Former owner Marjorie Ketcher has sold her popular inn to new owners, Mike and Alexis, who have kept the motto “do one fun thing a day.” A treasure-trove of beach toys, from snorkeling gear to kayaks, and even bicycles and bike racks for cars, help guests achieve that goal.

• The Palmwood ( 56 2/688-3433): This is a unique property: tranquil (located atop a hill of a 4-acre estate), fabulous views (360-degree view of the rolling hills of Moloa’a Valley and out to the ocean), and unbelievably beautiful rooms and surrounding landscaping. From the stone entryway to the leather/palm-wood chairs (so comfortable you will be hard-pressed to leave them) to the sound of water falling—this is the lap of luxury. The amenities at this tiny inn include flat-screen TVs, large lanais, hot tub, and Japanese Zen gardens outside (with barbecue area). Enjoy a full breakfast (such as crab cakes with banana bread and sliced mango) then relax in the free-form hammock. It’s pricey (from $280) but worth every penny.

• Rosewood Bed & Breakfast ( 80 8/822-5216): This lovingly restored century-old plantation home, set amid tropical flowers, lily ponds, and waterfalls, has accommodations to suit everyone. There’s a Laura Ashley–style room in the main house, and two private cottages on the grounds. There’s also a bunkhouse with three separate small rooms with a shared shower and toilet.


11 The Best Restaurants

• Bar Acuda ( 80 8/826-7081): After starting two successful restaurants in San Francisco (The Slow Club and 42°), chef/owner Jim Moffat moved to the tiny town of Hanalei and opened this sleek, romantic restaurant specializing in his favorite tapas dishes from the Southern European regions along the 42° latitude (southern France, Italy, Spain, and Portugal). In an atmosphere of candlelight and exotic mouthwatering aromas coming from the open exhibition kitchen, wonderful food and terrific service make this a must-stop.

• The Beach House ( 80 8/742-1424): Though there has been a major cosmetic overhaul at this beachfront magnet in Lawai, the food is as good as ever. The Beach House remains the south shore’s premier spot for sunset drinks, appetizers, and dinner—a treat for all the senses.

• Caffè Coco ( 80 8/822-7990): This gets our vote for the most charming ambience on Kauai. Caffè Coco is just off the main road at the edge of a cane field in Wailua, its backyard shaded by fruit trees, with a view of Sleeping Giant Mountain. Gourmet fare is cooked to order—and at cafe prices. The food is excellent, with vegetarian and other healthful delights such as spanakopita, homemade chai, Greek salad, fish wraps, macadamia nut–black sesame ahi with wasabi cream, and an excellent tofu-and-roast-veggie wrap.

• Dondero’s ( 80 8/742-1234): This is one of your best bets for a romantic dinner on Kauai. Dine either under the stars overlooking the ocean or tucked away at an intimate table surrounded by inlaid marble floors, ornate imported floor tiles, and Franciscan murals. All this atmosphere comes with the best Italian cuisine on the island, served with efficiency. It’s hard to have a bad experience here. Dinners are pricey and worth every penny.

• Duke’s Canoe Club ( 80 8/246-9599): Tropical atmosphere overlooking the ocean, great fresh fish at attractive prices, and dependably good meals. Don’t miss the wallet-pleasing drink prices at happy hour.

• Hanapepe Café ( 80 8/335-5011): Now under new management, Hanapepe maintains the same wholesome cuisine in a casual, winning ambience that has drawn foodies for a decade. During lunchtime the place is packed with businesspeople who drive 30 minutes to eat here. On the Friday-night dinner menu, such Italian specialties as lasagna quattro formaggio with spinach, mushrooms, and four cheeses steal the show. There’s no liquor license, but you can bring your own wine.

• Kilauea Fish Market ( 80 8/828-6244): Perfect for a takeout lunch or dinner on the beach, this tiny deli (with a handful of tables outside) pumps out

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