Frommer's Kauai - Jeanette Foster [121]
The most popular beaches are on the island’s north and south coasts. They can be crowded, especially on weekends. But there are plenty of beaches, white sand, and surf for everyone. Be sure to read “Safety in the Surf” to learn how to avoid potential dangers in Kauai’s ocean environment.
Hawaii’s beaches belong to the people. All beaches (even those in front of exclusive resorts) are public property, and you are welcome to visit them. Hawaii state law requires that all resorts and hotels offer public right-of-way access (across their private property) to the beach, along with public parking. So just because a beach fronts a hotel doesn’t mean that you can’t enjoy the water. It does mean that the hotel may restrict certain areas on private property for hotel guests’ use only. Generally, hotels welcome nonguests to their facilities. They frown on nonguests using the beach chairs reserved for guests, but if a nonguest has money and wants to rent gear, buy a drink, or eat a sandwich, well, money is money, and they will gladly accept it from anyone. However, that does not mean that you can willy-nilly cross private property to get to a beach. Look for BEACH ACCESS signs; don’t trespass.
Note: Despite what you may have heard, nudity is against the law in Hawaii. You can be prosecuted. (Yes, the police do arrest people for being bare on the beach.)
LIHUE
Kalapaki Beach
Any town would pay a fortune to have a beach like Kalapaki, one of Kauai’s best, in its backyard. But little Lihue turns its back on Kalapaki; there’s not even a sign pointing the way through the labyrinth of traffic to this graceful half moon of golden sand at the foot of the Marriott Resort & Beach Club. Fifty yards wide and a quarter mile long, Kalapaki is protected by a jetty, making it very safe for swimmers. The waves are good for surfing when there’s a winter swell, and the view from the sand—of the 2,200-foot peaks of the majestic Haupu Ridge that shield Nawiliwili Bay—is awesome. Kalapaki is the best beach not only in Lihue but also on the entire east coast. During certain times of the year there are strong currents and dangerous shorebreaks. From Lihue Airport, turn left onto Kapule Highway (Hwy. 51) to Rice Street; turn left and go to the entrance of the Marriott; pass the hotel’s porte-cochere and turn right at the SHORELINE ACCESS sign. Facilities include free parking, restrooms, and showers; food and drink are available nearby at Kalapaki Beach Hut . There is no lifeguard.
Ninini Beach
If you are looking for a good snorkeling/swimming beach off the beaten track, this small beach, consisting of two sandy coves separated by lava, is a great place to get away from the crowds. Some local residents call this Running Waters Beach due to the former irrigation runoff when sugar was in production here. Located at the northern end of Nawiliwili Harbor and hidden behind some cliffs, this beach is generally protected from the wind and currents. However, high surf can kick up, and southern storms can charge in suddenly. The small northern sandy cove has good snorkeling and swimming most of the year. Follow the trail down from the dirt road to the beach. Occasionally a few nudists show up here, but remember—nudity is against the law in Hawaii and you can be prosecuted for lewd and lascivious behavior. We prefer the larger beach because of the gentle sandy slope (great for sunbathing) and because the sandy bottom makes for great snorkeling. When the surf does roll in here, the bodysurfers will be in the water. To get here, take Ahukini Road toward the airport; when the road appears to end, veer left (still on Ahukini Rd.) and head for the ocean. When the road meets the ocean, turn right on the dirt road that circumnavigates the airport with the ocean on your left. Travel about 21⁄2 miles on this dirt road to the Nawiliwili Lighthouse. Look for the two trails down to the ocean. Ninini