Frommer's Kauai - Jeanette Foster [142]
Hiking the Kalalau Trail
The trail head is at Kee Beach, at the end of Highway 560. Even if you only go as far as Hanakapiai, bring water.
THE FIRST 2 MILES: TO HANAKAPIAI BEACH Do not attempt this hike unless you have adequate footwear (closed-toe shoes at least; hiking shoes are best), water, a sun visor, insect repellent, and adequate hiking clothes. (Shorts and T-shirt are fine; your bikini is not.) It’s only 2 miles to Hanakapiai Beach, but the first mile is all uphill. This tough trail takes about 2 hours one-way and dissuades many, but everyone should attempt at least the first half mile, which gives a good hint of the startling beauty that lies ahead. Day hikers love this initial stretch, so it’s usually crowded. The island of Niihau and Lehua Rock are often visible on the horizon. At mile marker 1, you’ll have climbed from sea level to 400 feet; now it’s all downhill to Hanakapiai Beach. Sandy in summer, the beach becomes rocky when winter waves scour the coast. There are strong currents and no lifeguards, so swim at your own risk. You can also hike another 2 miles inland from the beach to Hanakapiai Falls, a 120-foot cascade. Allow 3 hours for that one-way stretch.
THE REST OF THE WAY The Kalalau is the most difficult and challenging hike in Hawaii, and one you’ll never forget. Even the Sierra Club rates the 22-mile round-trip into Kalalau Valley and back as “strenuous”—this is serious backpacking. Follow the footsteps of ancient Hawaiians along a cliff-side path that’s a mere 10 inches wide in some places, with sheer 1,000-foot drops to the sea. One misstep, and it’s limu (seaweed) time. Even the hardy and fit should allow at least 2 days to hike in and out. (See below for camping information.) Although the trail is usually in good shape, go in summer when it’s dry; parts of it vanish in winter. When it rains, the trail becomes super-slippery, and flash floods can sweep you away.
A park ranger is now on-site full time at Kalalau Beach to greet visitors, provide information, oversee campsites, and keep trails and campgrounds in order.
Camping in Kalalau Valley & Along the Na Pali Coast
You must obtain a camping permit; see above for details. The camping season runs roughly from May or June to September (depending on the site). All campsites are booked almost a year in advance, so call or write well ahead of time. Stays are limited to 5 nights. Camping areas along the Kalalau Trail include Hanakapiai Beach (facilities are pit toilets, and water is from the stream), Hanakoa Valley (no facilities, water from the stream), Milolii (no facilities, water from the stream), and Kalalau Valley (composting toilets, several pit toilets, and water from the stream). To get a permit, contact the Division of State Parks, 3060 Eiwa St., Suite 306, Lihue, HI 96766 ( 80 8/274-3446;www.kauai-hawaii.com/activities.php). Generally, the fee for a state park camping permit is $5 per campsite per night, but the Na Pali fee is $10 per campsite per night. You cannot stay more than 5 consecutive nights at one campsite. Keep your camping permit with you at all times.
4 Other Outdoor Pursuits
Kauai Golf Courses
GOLF
For last-minute and discount tee times, call Stand-by Golf ( 88 8/645-BOOK; www.hawaiistandbygolf.com) between 7am and 10pm. Stand-by offers discounted greens fees, guaranteed tee times for same-day or next-day golfing.
In the listings below, the cart fee is included in the greens fee unless otherwise noted.
Lihue & Environs
Kauai Lagoons Golf Courses As we went to press only 18 holes were open on this two-course