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and updated with plush new carpeting, a Balinese-style wood entry door, marble bathroom and floors, top-of-the-line bedding, and high-speed wireless Internet service. The Hilton also added a new quartzite stone decking at the resort’s four-pool complex, a 12-foot waterfall cascading into the main pool, a flume and lava-tube waterslide at the sand-bottom pool, and a whirlpool spa in a stone grotto surrounded by ferns and a waterfall. The entire property is nonsmoking; the only places you can light up are on the oceanside luau lawn and in the parking lot. The location is good, about equidistant from both north- and south-shore activities, and also close to the Wailua River and its kayaking, water-skiing, river tours, historical sites, and waterfalls. There is one policy that they instituted a few years ago that I find beneath the dignity of a Hilton: Guests must sign for a beach towel and if you don’t return it by 10pm, you will be charged $15 (per day) for your towel. Since a majority of the guests are families, this policy has really created havoc—on my last trip, numerous guests told me they have a hard time just keeping track of their kids’ sandals, let alone where the kids may have left the beach towel. I hope the Hilton will amend this not-so-family-friendly policy.

4331 Kauai Beach Dr., Lihue, HI 96766. 800/HILTONS or 80 8/245-1955. Fax 80 8/246-9085. www.hilton.com. 350 units. $160–$249 double; from $600 suite. Daily $13 resort fee for nightly sunset cocktail party and Polynesian dance show, use of the fitness center, coffee/tea service (6–7am), in-room coffee and tea service, local calls, in-room wireless Internet access, shuttle service to airport, and parking. Numerous packages available, including car rentals, senior rates, and more. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant, bar; free airport shuttle; babysitting; concierge; fitness center; 4 outdoor pools; spa; tennis courts; watersports equipment rentals. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

Kaha Lani Resort Located on the outskirts of Lihue, almost to the Coconut Coast, this 75-unit condominium project, set back from the ocean by a wide, grassy lawn, overlooks miles of white sandy beaches. It’s a quiet location but not perfect. Conditions can be fair for swimming, but a good percentage of the time it’s just too windy and turbulent. The property does have a heated swimming pool, plus barbecue areas, tennis courts, and a putting green. If you are looking for a peaceful, restful vacation this could work for you. The property is bordered by a golf course on one side and the ocean on the other. The units are older, most of them recently renovated, with full kitchens, ceiling fans, and great ocean views from the big lanais. I’d recommend getting an “ocean view” unit with a perfectly fabulous view of the blue Pacific, instead of an “oceanfront” unit; these units are away from the pool and more private, but they’re close to the sewerage treatment plant and occasionally you can get a whiff of what goes on there.

4460 Nehe Rd., Lihue, HI 96766. 80 0/367-5004 or 80 8/822-9331. Fax 80 8/822-2828. www.castleresorts.com. 75 units (40 in rental pool). $235–$320 1-bedroom; $295–$415 2-bedroom; $385–$485 3-bedroom. Check Internet specials, which start at $149. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 barbecue areas; heated outdoor pool; putting green; and tennis court. In room: TV, hair dryer, full kitchen, Wi-Fi access available in some units and in office.

MODERATE

Kauai Beach Villas These beachfront condos are a good option for families and others seeking more space and privacy than they’d get elsewhere in Lihue. You get all the space of a condo, plus access to the amenities next door at the Hilton (see above) where there is a spa, restaurant, and so forth. The only drawback is the unsafe swimming conditions on the beautiful but windy white-sand beach. The buildings were painted and upgraded (new barbecues areas) a couple of years ago. All units are outfitted with tropical decor and bamboo-style furniture, a fully equipped kitchen, a washer/dryer, and a lanai big