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By Root 3152 0

The walls, high ceilings, and beams are of ponderosa pine, and the bunk beds are made of logs. Hostellers share the bathhouse with campers (see "Camping," above), and linens are available. For those who want more privacy, there are two attractive but basic cabins that also share the campground bathhouse. You'll also find an espresso bar, laundry, horseshoe pits, and a natural stone and petrified wood labyrinth (sort of like a maze) that leads to a quiet meditation area. In addition, a gift shop features handmade deer antler jewelry, and you can often see the jeweler (who is also the hostel's owner-manager) at work.

Skyridge Inn Bed and Breakfast

950 E. Utah 24 (P.O. Box 750220), Torrey, UT 84775. ☎ 800/448-6990 or 435/425-3222. www.skyridgeinn.com. 6 units. A/C TV/VCR TEL. Apr–Oct $119–$189 double; Nov–Mar $107–$170 double. Rates include breakfast and evening hors d'oeuvres. AE, MC, V.

This combination bed-and-breakfast and art gallery offers a delightful alternative to the standard motel. The three-story contemporary inn has six distinctive units, each with private bathroom, hair dryer, robes, CD player, and coffee service. Rooms are decorated with an eclectic mix of antiques, folk sculpture, and contemporary art. Two rooms have private decks with hot tubs, while another features a two-person whirlpool tub and private deck.

An impressive fireplace, decorated with over 30 pounds of roofing nails, sits in the gallery/gathering room, which also contains books, games, CDs, and movies available for guest use. There is also an outdoor hot tub available to all guests. The inn is set on 75 acres, with its own hiking trails and spectacular views of the national park and Boulder Mountain. Full breakfasts include

homemade granola; fresh-baked coffee cake, muffins, or cinnamon rolls; and a hot entree such as Southwest frittatas, pecan griddle-cakes, or apple-stuffed croissants along with fresh fruit. Smoking is permitted outside on decks or porches.

Wonderland Inn

Junction of Utah 24 and 12 (P.O. Box 67), Torrey, UT 84775. ☎ 877/854-0184 or 435/425-3775. Fax 435/425-3212. www.capitolreef wonderland.com. 50 units. A/C TV TEL. Summer $58–$70 double, $78 suite; winter $40–$48 double, $70 suite. Pets accepted; $10 fee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.

If you want panoramic views in all directions, this is the place. Built in 1990, the modern motel perches high on a hill set back from the highway, which not only provides great views but also makes it peaceful and quiet. Built, owned, and managed by Ray and Diane Potter and family, the property is especially well kept. Standard motel rooms have two queen-size beds or one king, along with typical modern motel decor and some genuine wood touches. Suites have king-size beds, large whirlpool tubs, and private balconies. Facilities include an indoor/outdoor heated swimming pool, tanning room, whirlpool, sauna, beauty salon, gift shop, and restaurant (open daily year-round, with a popular breakfast buffet in summer).

Where to Dine

There are no dining facilities inside the park.

NEAR THE PARK

In addition to the restaurants discussed below, you'll find good restaurants, open year-round, at both the Best Western Capitol Reef Resort and the Wonderland Inn (see "Where to Stay," above).

Brink's Burgers Drive-In

165 E. Main St., Torrey. ☎ 435/425-3710. Most items $3–$7. MC, V. Daily 11am–9pm. Closed Nov–Feb. BURGERS/SANDWICHES.

This nonfranchise fast-food restaurant serves good burgers and crunchy English-style fries in a cafelike setting and at outdoor picnic tables. In addition to better-than-average burgers, choices include a garden burger, chicken and fish selections, cheese sticks, onion rings, zucchini slices, breaded mushrooms, and spicy potato wedges. A wide variety of ice-cream cones and thick milkshakes are also available; no alcohol is served.

Cafe Diablo

599 W. Main St., Torrey. ☎ 435/425-3070. www.cafediablo.net. Main courses $17–$28. MC, V. Daily 5–10pm. Closed mid-Oct to late Apr. SOUTHWESTERN.

Looks are deceiving.