Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [120]
For those with more time and stamina, consider following the trail all the way to Point Bennett, a 16-mile round-trip. Camping along the trail is forbidden. The diversity of scenery and wildlife on view is seemingly endless for those hikers hardy enough to endure the wind and weather. After crossing San Miguel Hill, the trail passes the caliche forest. The trail then heads west to Point Bennett, passing south of the island's other peak, Green Mountain. At the end of the trek, the barking of sea lions will signal your arrival at Point Bennett, where as many as 35,000 pinnipeds can congregate.
Note: San Miguel Island was used as a bombing range for the U.S. Navy between 1948 and 1970. Live ordnance is still occasionally uncovered in the shifting sand, so it is extremely important to stay on established trails.
Camping. Camping is allowed on San Miguel year-round, though camping dates are subject to the availability of the San Miguel Island ranger. Located 1 mile south of Cuyler Harbor, between Cabrillo Monument and the old Lester Ranch complex, the campground has nine primitive sites and a capacity of 30 people. The hike to the campground includes a steep climb up Nidever Canyon—keep this in mind before packing your accordion. There is a pit toilet and basic wind shelter at each site, but food and water are not available. No fires are allowed, but cooking is permitted on enclosed backpack-type stoves. Be sure to bring a strong tent, a sleeping bag, and waterproof clothes—the wind is often fierce, and damp fog can set in for days.
There is a nightly $10 charge per site for camping, and a reservation is required. Reservations can be obtained at the park visitor center or by calling ☎ 800/365-CAMP [2267] or visiting http://reservations.nps.gov. Campground reservations fill quickly, so be sure to call well in advance.
EXPLORING SANTA BARBARA
Lonely, lonely Santa Barbara. As you come upon the island after a typical 3-hour crossing, you may think that someone took a medium-size grassy hill, ringed it with cliffs, and plunked it down in the middle of the ocean. In terms of land, there's just not a lot here. Even the Chumash eschewed living on the island because of its lack of fresh water. But the upside is that, of all the islands, Santa Barbara gives you the best sense of what it's like to be stranded on a desert isle, surrounded by the immense Pacific Ocean.
The island's deserted appearance is somewhat misleading. During the 1920s, farming, overgrazing, intentional burning by island residents, and the introduction of rabbits all but destroyed the island's native vegetation. To survive the island conditions, plants must be tolerant of salt water and wind—and unfortunately, the Santa Barbara ice plant is perfectly suited to this type of environment.
Originally imported from South Africa in the early 1900s, the nonnative ice plant survives by capturing moisture from sea breezes and subsequently leaches salt into the soil, raising the soil's salt concentration. This plant has wreaked havoc on the natural ecosystem, virtually taking over much of the island. Through its resource-management program, the Park Service is taking steps to eradicate nonnative species from the islands.
Other than the landing cove, there's no access to the water's edge. (The snorkeling in the chilly cove is great.) You can hike the entire 640-acre island in a few hours, then spend some time staring out to sea. You won't be let down. The cliffs and rocks are home to elephant seals (weighing up to 6,000 lb.) and sea lions that feed in the kelp forests surrounding the island. Because of the island's small size, the barking of sea lions is audible almost everywhere. The Sea Lion Rookery, Webster Point, and Elephant Seal Cove all provide excellent overlooks from which to observe the animals. Be sure to stay at least 100 yards away, particularly from January through July during pupping time—young animals may become separated from their mothers if disturbed.
Santa Barbara's