Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [142]
Furnace Creek Ranch
Calif. 190, adjacent to the Furnace Creek Visitor Center (P.O. Box 1), Death Valley, CA 92328. ☎ 760/786-2345. Fax 760/686-2514. www.furnacecreekresort.com. 224 units. A/C TEL. $88–$182 double. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.
Run by the same folks who maintain the elegant Furnace Creek Inn, the year-round Furnace Creek Ranch is more down-to-earth, with rustic cottages and motel rooms that are great for families. Amenities include a naturally heated spring-fed pool, the world's lowest 18-hole golf course (at 214 ft. below sea level), tennis and basketball courts, a playground, and a selection of dining options (see below).
Panamint Springs Resort
Calif. 190, 30 miles west of Stovepipe Wells (P.O. Box 395), Ridgecrest, CA 93555. ☎ 775/ 482-7680. www.deathvalley.com. 14 units, 1 cottage. A/C. $65–$79 double, $139 cottage. DISC, MC, V.
The privately owned Panamint Springs Resort, across the Panamint Range and about a 45- to 60-minute drive west of Furnace Creek, is a bit off the beaten path, not just geographically but also philosophically. A welcome change from the touristy overtones of Death Valley, this charming rustic motel has plain rooms as well as a full-service restaurant that serves traditional American fare at breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Dinner is priced at $10 to $24.
Stovepipe Wells Village
Calif. 190 at Stovepipe Wells, Death Valley, CA 92328. ☎ 760/786-2387. Fax 760/786-2389. 83 units. A/C. $83–$103 double. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.
The truly budget-conscious opt for Stovepipe Wells Village, where the modest air-conditioned motel rooms (sans phones and TVs) surround a small pool. About 23 miles northwest of Furnace Creek, Stovepipe Wells has a general store, Internet kiosk, saloon, and dining room (see below). Rooms have two twin beds, two double beds, or one king.
NEAR THE PARK
Because accommodations in Death Valley are limited, you might consider the money-saving (but inconvenient) option of spending a night in one of the gateway towns. Lone Pine, on the west side of the park, is a good choice, with a wide selection of lodging and great Western views and charm. Beatty, Nevada, and Shoshone have inexpensive lodgings. Each is about an hour's drive from the park's center, but accommodations are limited to unremarkable motels. In Death Valley Junction, the restored Amargosa Opera House and Hotel (☎ 760/852-4441; www.amargosa-opera-house.com) offers 14 air-conditioned rooms in a historic out-of-the-way place, 30 miles from Furnace Creek. Room rates are $49 to $65, and credit cards (AE, MC, V) are accepted. Operas are staged on Saturdays from October to May.
Where to Dine
INSIDE THE PARK
There aren't many restaurants inside the park, or much variety (most of them serve basic American fare), but here's a rundown.
There are three dining options at the Furnace Creek Ranch, all relatively informal. The best and most economical is the Forty Niner Cafe, a diner with better-than-average food and a widely varied menu. It's open daily from 7am to 9pm. The adjacent Wrangler Steakhouse offers an all-you-can-eat buffet for breakfast (6–9am) and lunch (11am–2pm). The prices are higher than average, but the buffet is a good choice for families with hearty eaters. From 5:30 to 9:30pm, the Wrangler offers table service, grilling steaks, ribs, and other satisfying specialties; the servings are generous, but the dinners are pricey. At the golf course, the 19th Hole Bar & Grill serves sandwiches and pub fare from October to May. All of these places accept major credit cards (AE, DC, DISC, MC, V).
At the elegant dining room at the Furnace Creek Inn (☎ 760/786-2345), the menu features elements of several Continental and regional cuisines. The peaceful setting