Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [171]
A BRIEF HISTORY
Compared with its counterparts in the Lower 48, Waterton is a tiny park; the total size is only 203 square miles. However, the park has great historical significance: Based on more than 200 identified archaeological sites, historians think that Aborigines first populated the area 11,000 years ago.
In modern times, Waterton Lakes became a national park about 6 years before oil was discovered here. (Oil and mineral exploration was allowed in Canada's national parks during the system's infancy.) It was set aside as a national park in 1895, thanks to the efforts of a local rancher. In 1932, following an initiative by the Rotary Clubs of Alberta and Montana, Waterton Lakes and Glacier national parks were designated the world's first International Peace Park. They have since come to represent the need for cooperation between nations where sharing resources and ecosystems is possible. The areas were designated Bio-Sphere Reserves by the UNESCO Man and Bio-Sphere Program, in order to provide information about the relationships between people and the environment. The two parks were jointly designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995.
EXPLORING THE PARK
Unlike most "park centers"—essentially a smattering of restaurants, souvenir shops, and gas stations clustered around the primary lodging—Waterton Village actually is a village. As you cruise the perimeter of the lake heading for Waterton Village, you'll pass three large lakes, the habitat of bald eagles that often perch atop the snags of dead trees. The park bears a striking resemblance to Grand Teton in that its attractions spread out across a narrow valley floor; however, the valley is narrower, and peaks surround three-fourths of it, so the overall effect is cozier but equally dramatic.
By most standards, it's also windier here, though locals say that they don't acknowledge the wind unless there are whitecaps in the restroom toilets at the Prince of Wales Hotel (see "Where to Stay," below).
Hiking, cruising the lake, or just doing nothing are all great pastimes in this neck of the woods. Most of the 120 miles of trails are easily accessible from town. They range in difficulty from short strolls to steep treks for overnight backcountry enthusiasts.
DAY HIKES
The park is a popular destination for European, Canadian, and American hiking fanatics. For nearly 20 years, the 10.8-mile Crypt Lake Trail has been rated as one of Canada's best hikes— except for those prone to seasickness: To reach the trailhead, hikers take a 2-mile boat ride across Upper Waterton Lake. Contact the Waterton Shoreline Cruise Company (☎ 403/859-2362) for details regarding the boat shuttle. After that, the trail leads past Hellroaring Falls, Twin Falls, and Burnt Rock Falls before reaching Crypt Falls and a passage through a 60-foot rock tunnel. The elevation gain is 2,300 feet, but veterans say the hike is doable in 3 hours, one-way.
A second, extended tour starts at the marina and heads south across the international boundary to Goat Haunt, Montana, an especially popular trip because of the sightings of bald eagles, bears, bighorn sheep, deer, and moose, as well as numerous unusual geologic formations.
The International Peace Park Hike, a free guided trip that follows Upper Waterton Lake, takes place on Saturdays from the end of June through the end of August. Participants meet at the Bertha trailhead in the morning and spend the day on an 8.5-mile trail with U.S. and Canadian rangers. At the end of the trail, hikers return by boat to the main dock. Adult fare is C$14 (US$12); children's fare C$7 (US$6).
CAMPING
At the west end of the village is Townsite Campground, a Parks Canada–operated facility with 235 sites that's an especially popular jumping-off spot for campers headed into the park's backcountry. Prices range from C$21 (US$18) to C$33 (US$28); half of the sites have electricity and sewage disposal. Also available on the premises are kitchen shelters, washrooms,