Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [184]
Two South Rim wilderness trails, the Grandview and Hermit trails, work well for day hikes. Day-hikers often descend 2,600 vertical feet on the Grandview Trail to Horseshoe Mesa (avoid when wet or icy). This trail does not provide direct access to the Colorado River. Another option is to follow the Hermit Trail to Santa Maria or Dripping Springs (on a spur on the Dripping Springs Trail). Other South Rim wilderness trails include the Tanner, New Hance, Boucher, and South Bass. North Rim wilderness trails include the Bill Hall, Thunder River, Deer Creek, North Bass, and Nankoweap.
You can ask questions about wilderness trails and obtain free trail descriptions at the Backcountry Information Center (☎ 928/638-7875), in the Maswik Transportation Center on the South Rim, and in the Backcountry Reservations trailer on the North Rim (no phone), approximately 11 miles south of the North Rim entrance gate, and marked by a sign. More detailed descriptions can be found in guidebooks and individual trail guides sold through the Grand Canyon Association (☎ 800/ 858-2808; www.grandcanyon.org).
Other Sports & Activities
Fishing. There's great trout fishing in the Colorado River just upstream of the national park, between Glen Canyon Dam and Lees Ferry. For advice on fishing this area, contact Lees Ferry Anglers Guides and Fly Shop (☎ 800/962-9755 or 928/355-2261), at Cliff Dwellers Lodge, about 2½ hours north of Flagstaff on U.S. 89A. Before you can fish in or near the park, you'll need an Arizona Fishing Permit and trout stamp, available at Lees Ferry Anglers or at the Canyon Village Marketplace (☎ 928/ 638-2262) in Grand Canyon Village.
The best trout fishing inside the park is at the eastern end of the canyon, upstream of Phantom Ranch. The river is clear and cold (48°F/9°C) year-round directly below the dam, making this a great trout hatchery—and a chilling place for the native species, which evolved to live in muddy water and extreme variations in temperature. Downstream, the river gradually warms and gathers sediment from its tributaries, causing the trout population to dwindle and enabling the bottom-feeders to survive. The five most abundant fish species in the park are carp, speckled dace, flannel-mouth sucker, rainbow trout, and blue-head sucker.
Biking. Inside the park, cyclists are required to stay on roads, many of them narrow and crowded, and are not allowed on the new section of the greenway. On the South Rim, the best riding is on Hermit Road when it is closed to most cars. At these times, you'll still have to watch out for tour buses, shuttles, and an occasional private vehicle. You can mountain-bike on trails in the Kaibab National Forest, which borders the park on both rims.
Near the South Rim, you can rent higher-end bicycles at Absolute Bikes, 18 N. San Francisco St., Flagstaff (☎ 928/779-5969; www.absolutebikes. net). Prices run $20 to $30 for a half day, $25 to $45 for a full day. For visitors to the North Rim, Escape Adventures in Moab, Utah (☎ 800/596-2953 or 435/ 259-7423; www.escapeadventures.com), rents bikes for a half day ($30) or full day ($40).
Cross-Country Skiing. When snow sticks on the South Rim, you can cross-country ski at the Grandview Nordic Center in the Kaibab National Forest near Grandview Point. To get there, drive east toward Desert View on Ariz. 64. About 1¾ miles past the Grandview Point turnoff, turn right on the road to the Arizona Trail. The Forest Service has marked three loops in this area, each meandering through meadows and ponderosa pine forest. For more information, call the Kaibab National Forest Tusayan Ranger District Office (☎ 928/638-2443).
White-water Rafting. White-water rafting trips inside the park generally last 3 to 14 days and must be booked well ahead of time. Most trips begin at Lees Ferry, Arizona; end points vary. Some companies allow partial trips, picking up or dropping off passengers