Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [199]
Since opening Cafe Tusayan in a space formerly occupied by Denny's, the owners have kept the menu small. They serve a few varieties of salads; appetizers such as jalapeño poppers and sautéed mushrooms; and a half-dozen entrees, including salmon with herb butter, baked chicken, and stroganoff. Perhaps because the chefs are able to focus on just a few dishes, the food ranks among the best in Tusayan. However, the servers tend to lose focus when busy, and the decor screams "chain restaurant."
Canyon Star Restaurant
In the Grand Hotel, Hwy. 64 (1½ miles from the park's south entrance). ☎ 888/634-7263 or 928/638-3333. Reservations not accepted. Breakfast $4.50–$8.95; lunch $3.95–$11; dinner main courses $13–$23. Daily 7–10am, 11am–2pm, and 5–9pm. AE, DISC, MC, V. REGIONAL.
The entertainment at this festive restaurant seems designed to give foreign tourists exactly what they hope to find in the American West. Most nights, a lonesome cowboy balladeer and spiritual Native American dancers take turns performing. Specialty items include grilled elk tenderloin, barbecue buffalo brisket, and smoked baby-back ribs. Salmon and trout are usually available. There's a good kids menu ($6), and the restaurant will pack box lunches ($9). The adjacent bar is Tusayan's leading hangout.
Coronado Dining Room
In the Best Western Grand Canyon Squire Inn, Hwy. 64 (1½ miles south of the park). ☎ 928/ 638-2681, ext. 4419. Reservations recommended. Main courses $14–$25. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5–10pm. CONTINENTAL.
Tasty food and attentive service make this the best restaurant in Tusayan. It serves tasty steaks, chicken, and seafood, with a few Southwestern and pasta dishes thrown in. The most delicious entree may be elk tournedos—broiled elk tenderloin medallions served with sweet red wine demiglace. The nattily attired waiters, high-backed wooden chairs, and dimly lighted metal chandeliers combine to make the surroundings more formal than those at other area eateries.
FLAGSTAFF
Black Bart's Steak House, Saloon, and Musical Revue
2760 E. Butler Ave. ☎ 928/779-3142. www.blackbartsrestaurant.com. Dinner $11–$33. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5–9pm. AMERICAN
Initially I was less than enthralled by the prospect of dining at a steakhouse and musical revue named for a legendary robber. Experience had convinced me that people who sing near steaks sing badly, and that people who cook near singers cook badly, and that people who run steakhouses offering bad singing and bad cooking are themselves legendary robbers. But this restaurant surprised me. First, the music is nicely performed by Northern Arizona University students. They capably croon country, blues, and cabaret songs, then hurry back to the tables they're serving. Even more surprising is the fact that the food—an assortment of hand-cut steaks and prime rib, salmon, grilled tuna, and ribs (vegetarian dishes are available, too)—can be pretty tasty. The highlight is the all-you-can-eat sourdough biscuits with honey butter, served with every meal.
The Black Bean Burrito Bar and Salsa Company
12 E. Rte. 66, Gateway Plaza Suite 104. ☎ 928/779-9905. Menu items $1.50–$6.25. MC, V. Daily 11am–9pm. MEXICAN.
Extravagant burritos seem to turn up in the most basic environments. At the Black Bean, you'll eat out of plastic drive-in baskets while sitting at a counter that opens onto a pedestrian walkway. The burritos, which come with a choice of six different salsas, are delicious and enormous, with the heft of hand weights. Just don't expect an authentic Mexican meal: the Black Bean offers creative specialty wraps (steamed or stir-fried food wrapped in tortillas), including exotic flavors such as Thai peanut tofu and roasted jalapeño chicken, as well as bean, chicken, and steak burritos.
Brewer Street Brewery
11 S. Beaver St. ☎ 928/779-0079. Lunch and dinner items $7.95–$19. AE,