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Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [254]

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most have a fireplace or wood stove and patio or deck, but all have evaporative coolers or air-conditioning for the sweltering summer. Our favorite: Irene's Historic Adobe, a one-bedroom, one-bunkroom house with a top-notch kitchen and an enclosed courtyard that's been used in music videos. Next to the outdoor pool—a perfect antidote to the desert heat—is a fabulous poolside bar. Other perks: weekend naturalist walks, an outdoor cinema (the Gypsy Theatre), and a 2-acre garden that provides veggies for the inn's restaurant, one of the best in town (see "Where to Dine," below).

Where to Dine


There are no restaurants in the park.

NEAR THE PARK

You can't go anywhere in the Southwest without seeing a Mexican restaurant, and the Morongo Basin is no exception. Although none attains true south-of-the-border authenticity, you'll find tasty, traditional fare such as saucy enchiladas, bulging burritos, layered tostadas, and plenty of crispy chips and salsa. The locals favor Edchada's, 56805 Twentynine Palms Hwy., Yucca Valley (☎ 760/ 365-7655), and 73502 Twentynine Palms Hwy., Twentynine Palms (☎ 760/367-2131). Both locations are open daily from 11am to 9pm and make a mean margarita; they take credit cards (AE, DISC, MC, V), and vegetarian dishes are available. Also in Twentynine Palms is Ramona's, 72115 Twentynine Palms Hwy. (☎ 760/367-1929), a tiny family-run place with vinyl tablecloths, piñatas, and its own local following. Ramona's serves beer and wine only and is open Sunday 8am to 8pm, Monday to Thursday 11am to 8pm, and Friday and Saturday 11am to 10pm; credit cards are accepted (AE, DC, DISC, MC, V). A good family option is the circus-themed Carousel Cafe, 72317 Twentynine Palms Hwy., Twentynine Palms (☎ 760/367-3736), an octagonal diner with good burgers and hearty breakfasts. It's open daily from 6am to 8:30pm and takes credit cards (AE, DC, DISC, MC, V).

29 Palms Inn

73950 Inn Ave., Twentynine Palms. ☎ 760/ 367-3505. Reservations recommended for dinner. Lunch entrees less than $6; full dinners $9–$20. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–2pm; Sun–Thurs 5–9pm, Fri–Sat 5–9:30pm. PASTA/ SEAFOOD/STEAK.

A favorite spot for local artists to display their work, this restaurant is tucked away behind its namesake hotel's postage stamp–size pool. It consists of a paneled dining room whose large, hospitable bar sports a vaguely nautical Polynesian theme. The reasonably priced meals enjoy their own fame, separate from the hotel's, and deservedly so. Starting with fresh vegetables from the inn's garden (which flourishes in this fertile oasis) and quality meat, poultry, and fresh fish, the kitchen sends out simple meals accented with zesty condiment inventions (such as citrus-tinged mustard-herb salad dressing). Lunch choices include fluffy quiche du jour, creamy soups, crunchy salads, and tostadas, plus a variety of hot and cold sandwiches—call ahead if you'd like a sack lunch prepared for a day in the park. Dinner is more robust, featuring grilled meats and fish, seafood sautéed in butter and garlic, and specials such as prime rib on Fridays and Saturdays. The white-plumed barn owls cavorting among the palm canopy further enhance the evening ambience.

Pappy and Harriet's Restaurant & Saloon

Pioneertown Rd., Pioneertown. ☎ 760/365-5956. Reservations recommended. Main courses $7–$20. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon 5–10pm; Thurs–Sun 11–10pm. Bar open later. Take Pioneertown Rd. 4 miles north of Yucca Valley. BARBECUE.

The Pappy and Harriet's motto, "Retire now, work later," is fitting for this low-key outpost, a culinary and musical mecca in the California desert. You can definitely make a case for the succulent, mesquite-grilled chicken and steaks as the best in the Joshua Tree area. Drinks are served in mason jars, paper towels serve as napkins, and the atmosphere of the grand, old-fashioned Western bar would best be described as rough around the edges. But truth be told, the joint has long been a favorite of Southern California musicians, including the legendary Gram Parsons and, more recently, rockers

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